Trip Reports - 8/26/00 - Flatliners Return to the Tetons

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See larger view of the South Teton

Part Four - The South Teton (12,514 ft.)

Enlarge photo of Jason

We arrived at The Meadows in the middle of the day and made camp. The plan was to rest for the afternoon and acclimate, but I couldn't stand it. I was just too excited and too ready to get on with it. It was a beautiful, warm, sunny afternoon, and it was time to climb. Jason reviewed the guidebook, and we chose to climb the South Teton via the Northwest Coulior. Fast and light, we threw on our day packs and headed up and out of  The Meadows into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. The South Fork is formed by the valley between the South and Middle Tetons.

We left camp a little after 3, made the summit around 6. I was very pleased, it was our first Teton. We enjoyed the evening views for a while, snapped a few photos, then returned to camp before 9. Everyone else was already bedding down, and after a quick dinner we slipped into our bivy sacks and passed the night.

  View larger photo of Jason on the summit

See bigger photo of the Lower Saddle

The next morning, we packed up and ascended to our next camp at the Lower Saddle. The  plan for this day was to scope out the approaches to the Grand Teton, and rest before leaving early the next morning. Again, Jason and I found we had too much time on our hands, and went off to investigate the possibilities of climbing the North side of the Middle Teton. We did find a route ascending that looked like it was in good condition, but were uncertain if we could descend it once we'd gained the summit. If not, it would involve going over the mountain, coming down the opposite side, descending to the Meadows, and climbing back up to the Lower Saddle again, a very long day.

Enlarge group photo

Instead, we stayed in camp and debated which route we would follow to reach the summit of the Grand Teton tomorrow. Henry, Jan, and Via wanted to climb the Upper Exum Ridge, to complete our adventure from the year before. Ken and Paula would take the traditional Owens-Spalding route, the most common path to the top. Jason really wanted to climb the North Ridge, a very challenging route, that involved a long traverse around to the far side of the mountain via the Valhalla Traverse. Concerned about speed, unfamiliarity with the routes both up and down, and the level of commitment, I successfully argued for a more conservative line. I wanted to at least have been to the top of the Grand and know how to get down before tackling the more challenging routes.

See bigger photo of group

Though the weather remained clear, it was breezy on the exposed Lower Saddle. We did our best to shelter our tents behind boulders and secure them against the wind. This notch between the two tall peaks was the funneling point where the weather spilled over the mountain range from Idaho into Wyoming. Jason and I found a convenient shelter for cooking in a small cave beneath a large boulder on the Idaho side of the ridge. Though the others had made plans, set departure times, and went to bed early, Jason and I retired with no real plan for the next day. We'd wake up, see what the day had to offer, then decide.

Show larger photo of camp

There was little rest that night. Around 3 AM the winds rose to gale force. though Jason and I were quite comfortable in our bivy sacks close to the ground, the tents of the others were getting severely battered. There was a lot of scrambling around in the dark to secure them with rocks, lines, and ropes to keep the tents from blowing off the mountain. At times, Via's tent had lifted off the ground with her in it! Only the tie downs kept her on the mountain. Despite the lack of sleep, Henry's group departed long before sunup as planned. Jason and I waited for daybreak, then left. Ken and Paula followed sometime after.

Enlarge photo of the Grand Teton

Jason and I started up the Owen-Spalding route, then detoured onto the top of a ridge looking for more challenging ground. Slogging up the loose scree slopes of the O-S did not appeal as much as the solid granite on higher ground. We more or less paralleled the standard route, emerging at the Upper Saddle (13,160 feet). Here, we broke out the rope and rack. Jason graciously permitted me the lead, and I took off. It was not until I looked back that I realized the "hard" part of the route was behind me.

See larger photo of Wayne .

I placed a piece of protection to control the rope as I next headed up a chimney and secured myself at the top. It was the last, and in fact the only piece of protective climbing gear either of us placed the entire trip. Jason took the next pitch, continuing up the chimney a way, then stopping. I followed up to him. We decided here to put the gear away. There was nothing we couldn't climb free, and so we continued on, no longer constrained by following any specific line.

View larger group photoWe angled to the the right (South) intersecting the Upper Exum Ridge in hopes of spotting Henry, Jan, and Via below, but the view was blocked. Continuing up the ridge, we arrived at the summit around 10 AM. The morning was wonderful. The winds had almost completely died, the sun was shining. It was cold and clear. There were a few others on the summit, but most had arrived early and were now departing. Jason and I found ourselves alone on top of the world.

We took photos, explored the summit, snacked, and took it all in. I hoped to descend and climb back up via the Upper Exum Ridge. We decided we would wait for a while to see of the others arrived soon. After all, it would be pretty neat if we were all on the summit together. Jason settled into a comfortable nook between some boulders to wait, I did the same. Silence. The next time I looked over, he was asleep.

See larger image of bench mark

I awoke around noon, as a Ranger came up to the Summit via the Exum route. Seeing us both asleep, he asked if we were OK. How much better can you be than this, I thought. Perfect conditions. He had seen a group of climbers below that sounded like it was Henry and crew, so we decided to wait a little longer. Ken and Paula arrived via the O-S a short time later. Within half an hour, all of us were sitting atop the Grand Teton.

See larger image of rappelling

We followed the standard route down, including the 120 foot free rappel back to the Upper Saddle. Fortunately, there was not a huge line of people backed up there, waiting to get on a rope. we waited out turn, rigged our ropes, and started descending. Even going two at a time, it took us a while to get the whole party down. As it was getting well into the afternoon, Jason and I decided to return to camp with the rest instead of going back up the Exum Ridge. We'd had a good climb, and spent most of the day on the summit.

The night passed more calmly than the one previous, and in the morning we headed down to return to the Climber's Ranch. Henry and Jan left us, to move to more comfortable accommodations in preparation for their wedding. Jason, Via, Ken and Paula, and I remained at the ranch for a few more days.

Enlarge view of the Middle Teton
Part Seven - The Middle Teton (12,804 ft.)  

Wednesday was supposed to be a rest day for me. We'd covered a good bit of ground in the last few days, had some good climbs. I thought it might be a good time for a little rest. However, when I heard the forecast might be changing, and that our best day was probably here and now, Jason and I decided to climb the Middle Teton. We would do it in a single day.

View larger photo of Wayne

We did not get an especially early start, but set a good pace. We made it from the Climber's Ranch to The Platforms in under two hours. We crossed the boulderfeilds, then The Meadows, and chose the fastest route up the North Fork of Garnet Canyon avoiding the snowfields as best we could. We worked our way around to the Southwest Couloir, and started up the steep loose chasm. There was so much loose rock it was safer to free climb the edges of the coulior rather than risk knocking rocks down on each other. By noon, we sat on out third summit.

View larger image of Jason

Of the three, I believe I liked this one the best. It affords great views of the Grand and South Tetons, as well as Garnet Canyon and the surrounding area. The summit is very narrow, and drops off with sheer cliffs for a a thousand feet on several sides. Though Jason wanted to descend by down-climbing a route on one of the cliffs, I balked, and convinced him to go back the way we'd come. I wasn't ready for that challenge on this day. Maybe next time.

We made good time on the way down as well, so much so that we tacked on a few extra miles by hiking by Taggart and Bradley Lakes on the way back. Still, we returned in time to join everyone for dinner at Dornan's. Ken, Paula, and Via would depart in the morning for a climb on Mt. Moran (12,605 feet), but the would get caught by the change in weather that came the next day. You'll have to get in touch with one of them to get that story.

See larger view of horses

Part Eight - After

 Thursday was a rest day. Jason and I hung out at the ranch, killing time. I read, boulder a bit, took a few photos. Jason started packing for his departure on Friday. We would eat at Dornan's again. The wedding festivities would commence tomorrow, and Jackie (my wife) would be joining me. The climbing was done. I was both pleased and disappointed. Thankful to have had such good weather and enjoyed climbing the three big ones. Sad to have done so little technical and challenging climbing. Inspired to return, smarter, better prepared, and  more aware of my capabilities. If you'd asked me before to climb the Grand in a day, I would have scoffed at the challenge. Now, I'll just ask you, "When?"

See larger photo of roadside

Jackie and I spent the week after the wedding in Jackson Hole, most of it at the Climber's Ranch. It gave me a chance to hike more of the trails, explore other canyons, and revisit spots I'd seen last year. I took more photos, and got a few good ones. I've included a few, hoping to give you more of the flavor of the area. During our stay, Jackie too, fell in love with the Tetons.

Enlarge window view

We'll be returning. At least next summer for sure, maybe even this winter for some skiing. There is something very special about the Tetons. It's still wild, open, rugged, all the things that you romantically think of when you envision the true west. Out here, cowboys are for real. It's not a place for tenderfoots, unless you're rolling in dough, and can afford the trappings of town living. But everything you need, and more important, everything you want is here. And if you're looking for an adventure, you can probably find it here.

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