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Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA
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Trip Reports - 8/26/00 - Flatliners Return to the Tetons (page 1 of 2)
Part One - How it came to be
Enlarge photo of main building At some point, all of us stayed at the Climber's Ranch. We couldn't have afforded the trip otherwise, exactly the reason the American Alpine Club acquired the ranch in 1970. Rumor has it, that in the nearby town of Jackson, the billionaires ran the millionaires off. A visit will confirm the rumor. If it weren't for the Climber's Ranch, most of us couldn't afford to climb in the Tetons. The Climber's Ranch offers the most affordable and accessible lodging for climbers registered to climb in Grand Teton National Park. Formerly the Double Diamond Ranch, the American Alpine Club was granted a concessionaire's permit in 1970 to operate the ranch to provide mountaineers and their families overnight accommodations. More convenient accommodations could not be had. A climber's trail leads form the ranch to the series of trails that access climbs of the most popular peaks in the range.
The accommodations at the ranch are primitive in comparison to anything else you'll find in the Jackson Hole area, yet are essentially ideal for climbers. There are 8 cabins that house from 4 - 8 climbers in each. Beds are assigned on a first come- first served basis. Housing is coed, you're never quite sure who your roommates will be, though they do try to keep families and groups together. Some of the cabins have a bathroom within, some even have a shower. You'll need to bring your own bedding, including a pad to sleep on. Plain plywood bunks are provided, though they are large enough for you and your gear. Cooking is not permitted within the cabins, so a large covered communal cooking area is provided. It is lighted at night, there is even an outlet so you can grind your java beans for breakfast in the morning. It brings everyone together in the evenings and is the social center of the ranch. Bring your own stove and utensils. Bear proof boxes are provided if you need to store non-perishable food and you don't have a car to keep it in. You can't keep food in the cabins, they are busy enough without visits by bears. This park rule also keeps mice and other vermin to a minimum. A sink for washing dishes is provided in the nearby bath house. There are separate bathroom facilities for men and women in this building, including hot showers. A small but well stocked library is attached to the main office, with comfortable couches, good lighting, and even a TV / VCR to watch tapes (The Eiger Sanction seems to be the most popular). The library is a great place to pass a rest day, wait out weather, study maps and guidebooks, even catch a quick nap. You can get any supplies you need, rent climbing gear, get a hot meal and a brew at Dornan's near the park entrance. In fact, Dornan will probably end up with most of your money, one way or another. They really do have everything you need (and want). Originally, the fee for an overnight stay was $1. That was way back in 1970, and things have become a lot more expensive. Now, you're going to have to shell out $6 per night. Wow! At those prices you could live there for the whole season! Some do. The Ranch will take reservations, you'll have to mail a check to them, and there is a $25 reservation fee. If you want to be absolutely sure of your accommodations, or have a large group, it's not a bad idea. The place does fill up many nights. Some tips to make your visit better - The ranch is a bargain, and sees a lot of traffic, climbers just like you. We're all doing the same things. Before you buy stove fuel (especially Coleman gasoline), check for extra at the ranch in the sink room cabinets. You may also find propane / isobutane canisters here. There is usually a stash of abandoned Styrofoam coolers as well. You might also score some unused food - that extra jar of peanut butter, etc. somebody left behind to support the cause, though the real climbing bums are sure to beat you to the best stuff. Once you check in, you can extend your stay indefinitely. Just let the office know (early) and pay for your rooms. If you leave for a few days to climb, they'll have a place for you when you return, though it will probably be in a different location (please clear your bunk while you're gone so others may use it). If you're short or female, try to get a lower bunk. It's a long way up and down to the uppers, and there are no ladders (it is the CLIMBERS ranch). Finally, bring some earplugs. The altitude, exertions, and good local brews bring out the snoring. Sometimes it's tough to get a good nights sleep. JOIN THE
AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB -
I went to the Tetons with a simple plan - "Let the mountains show me what to do". I had no list of peaks to summit, routes to conquer, schedules to keep. I learned on our visit last year that there is more to mountaineering than picking a route out of a guidebook. It's not just another climb, it's more like turning up the volume on the whole climbing experience. Like checkers is to chess - mountaineering is a much deeper game played on many more levels. I went this time with my mind open, to observe, to try to understand the rules and strategies involved better, and to learn. I was fortunate to have Jason Hale as my climbing partner. A strong and bold climber, adventures with Jason are always a lot of fun. I've done many of my best climbs with him. Henry, Jan, and Via joined together to make another team, and Ken and Paula made up a third. Jason was the first to come out to Wyoming, departing more than a week ahead of me. He spent the time hiking the trails, learning approaches to the summits, becoming familiar with the environment. By the time I arrived, he was eager to start climbing. Henry and Jan picked me up at the airport, and we all joined Jason at the Climber's Ranch. Most of us had come in from the East coast, a.k.a. sea level. Jason had time to acclimate to the altitude, but the rest of us would have to catch up before we headed up into the high country. To just charge on up there invited altitude sickness. Therefore, we spent the next day provisioning in Jackson, relaxing (drinking beer), and allowing our bodies at least a little time to adapt. We passed the night at the Climbers Ranch, and were greeted by Via, Ken, and Paula arriving the next morning. Paula, was an unexpected surprise. 4 months pregnant, none of us figured she'd be along, but here she was, stuffing gear into her pack, ready to go.
Henry and Jan had a plan. They would duplicate last years climb logistically, and hopefully, the weather would cooperate this time. One factor had improved, we now had better permits and could camp two nights at the Lower Saddle. It was a much better position strategically from which to launch assaults on the summit. As before, we first make a low camp at The Meadows (9200 feet), then move up to the Lower Saddle (11,600 feet) the next day. Again, this was to allow time to accommodate to the altitude. The other teams would tag along, sharing base camps, though we planned to climb different routes.
In no great hurry, we left for Garnet Canyon Saturday morning via the Climbers Trail. It starts near the bridge over Cottonwood Creek, roughly 1/2 mile from the ranch. Jason and I ran into a large moose here, then proceeded across the valley floor, flanked along a wooded ridge, then up to join the Lupine Meadows Trail at a junction. From here, it's out onto the East side of the Grand Teton and up a series of switchbacks to reach the trail that splits off to the South and into Garnet Canyon. Though the trail does not gain much more altitude, it does cross a couple of boulderfeilds before you emerge at The Meadows. Grand Teton National Park |
If
you'd asked me last year if I was returning to the 
I later came to find out that Henry had
proposed marriage to Jan during our ascent. Go figure. I attributed
it at first to hypoxia brought on by the altitude, but it turns
out it was serious, and Jan accepted his offer. Wedding plans evolved
around a return visit to the mountains and another attempt at the
summit. Following the climb, they would be married in Jackson Hole,
in 
Besides the logistics of coordinating
the event in so distant a setting, the greatest challenge was convincing
people to attend. It was a pretty big expenditure of both time and
finances. Despite this, the turnout was amazing, both of family
and climbers. The Flatliners were well represented with a core of
the old guard in attendance. Climbers included Jason Hale
(FL), Via Enneking (FL), Henry and Jan (DC), Ken Hahn and his wife
Paula (ID), and myself (FL). In addition, Flatliners Andy Mitchell
(TX), Beth Birmingham (GA), and my wife Jackie (FL) did not get
to climb, but attended the ceremonies and festivities. It turned
out to be the best wedding I've ever attended.
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larger image of cabin interior
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bigger photo of library
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larger photo of cabin
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view of ranch cabins
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larger skyline view
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larger photo of Jason
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bigger image of Jan and Henry
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photo of Jason in the boulders