Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Trip Reports - 7/11/01 Enchanted Rock, Texas

Photo by Rand McNally - Echo Canyon Trail

Story and photos by Rand McNally

Enlarge photo of Echo Canyon Trail

Just took another trip to Enchanted Rock, Texas. It is north of Fredericksburg, see http://hotx.com/hot/hillcountry/enchantrock/. This time I got to take my oldest daughter along. Here she is with the youngest, on the Echo Canyon Trail, which branches to the west off the Summit trail which leads from the parking lot to the main dome. Here, they are on the saddle between Main Dome and Little Dome. Typical West Texas vegetation, prickly pear, barrel cactus, oak and mesquite trees. We scared up a road runner just past this spot.

Photo by Rand McNally - The saddle between Main Dome and Little DomeSee larger photo of the saddle

Here the kids are on the north side of the saddle between Main Dome and Little Dome on the Echo Canyon Trail. The trail is marked, with a legend describing the markings for the various climbing areas. The guide book Dome Driver's Manual is out of print, but the area is included in Rock Climbing New Mexico and Texas by Dennis Jackson, a Falcon Guide. The guide book doesn't include the Triple Cracks Sanctuary, which is one of my favorites, a trad crack climbing area that rivals Tennessee Wall in quality of routes. Fear of Flying, in the Buzzard's Roost area, is a textbook dihedral crack of about 80 ft. It is rated R, but can be led with big bro's, or can be toproped by building your own anchor in the crack over the ledge. The ledge can be reached by continuing around and up to the right until you reach the summit. It is a must do.

Photo by Rand McNally - Tree chairSee larger photo tree chair

We couldn't resist this shot! Disclaimer: No trees or animals or any one from Texas or anyone named Bubba or Billy Bob was injured, maimed, killed, folded, spindled or mutilated by this photo or any activities on or in or in the vicinity of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area by any of the heretofore mentioned party or parties. We brought two ropes so I could belay both kids simultaneously, and the first pitches of some of the climbs are more than half a rope length so you need two ropes to rappel. You can walk off if you only have one rope. Go either east (somewhat steep), west (more steep) or south (the easy, but long way) and walk back via Echo Canyon Trail.

Photo by Rand McNally - North face of Main Dome

Vanna White Stefanie showing the prize, Main Dome from the saddle.

Here is the north face of Main Dome, on the west side. These routes are single pitch, with some requiring two ropes to rap, or a walk of to the west. It is nice slab climbing with feldspar crystals providing edging or smearing surfaces. The views are awesome. The east side routes are two to three pitches, with some gear placement and some bolts, and somewhat run out.

Photo by Rand McNally - Stefanie on Dome Driver, pitch two

Stef is rounding the top of pitch two of Dome Driver. Behind her is a belay / sling placement tree in one of the ledges. The belay anchor on top is two bolts. You can see the Echo Canyon trail in the upper left. A common mistake is to turn off the trail too early and getting lost among the huge boulders around the base of the Motorboat and Triple Cracks areas. Stay on the trail and it will wind to the east after going up hill past a creek bed on the left.

View larger photo of Stefanie on Dome Driver

Photo by Rand McNally - On the summit

From the summit you can see Moss Lake and a primitive camping area. We camped here for a week in Feb. and owned the place except on the weekend when a couple boy scout groups showed up. There is also car camping just off the parking area, and more primitive camping near Buzzard's Roost, that rarely gets crowded. The park shuts down after a certain number of visitors, a factor on spring and fall weekends and holidays.

Enlarge summit photo

Photo by Rand McNally - StefFinally, here's Mom finishing up Harder Than It Looks, Main Wall left side. This, Dome Driver, and Fly on a Windshield are my favorites on the slab. Y'all come see us now, y'hear? And while you're there, visit Luckenbach, just 15 miles southeast of Fredericksburg. You may see Waylon or Willie, the beer is cold and the barbeque is great.

See larger photo of Stef

Rand McNally (and family) climbs out of Jacksonville, Florida.

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