Submitted by Wayne Busch

Group Photo - click to enlarge

It would have been a lot hotter, except for the rain. Not much, mind you, but enough to provide a few rest pauses between bursts of good climbing. Not enough to keep us off several of our favorite routes, and again this trip, discover a new one.

Maria Fraser, Maureen Travers, and Shane Krause met Jackie and I at the Lookout Mountain Flight Park Landing Zone Friday night. We were joined later by Jim Waldrop, Jason Hale, and Eddie Mattson. The Landing Zone provides a cheap place to camp for the night, though I was not surprised to see the rates had increased to $5 per person per night when we self-registered at the restrooms. It's still a bargain just for the hot showers.

It sprinkled a few times through the night, and we awakened to clouds and distant thunder. As the morning evolved, the sky became clearer, and our hopes rose with the brightening sun. The weather changed again on our hike in from Sunset Rock. Thunder rumbled, and it started to rain. We sought refuge from the gentle storm in a large cave, spending the sheltered hour bouldering on the dry walls within. When the rain stopped, we emerged from the grotto and walked to the south. Jason Hale sprang up Airbrush 5.6, rigging our first top rope of the day. Wayne, always looking for a fresh challenge, spied an inviting crack in a nearby corner that looked like it would be an appropriate challenge for all. It was as expected, a new climb for our repetour, and a first ascent of Big Crack 5.6. (directions - look for the second corner north from airbrush, there is a big crack back in it. Climb the arete, transition onto the right face. Climb over the boulder wedged in the crack, then easier ground to the top 70ft. Take large gear to lead it, watch for loose rock on the left face).

A short walk north brought us to one of our favorite areas. Jason led Blonde Ambition 5.7*, and rigged it for the crew. Wayne then dropped ropes on Jugular Vein 5.7*, and Second Sun 5.9*. These three climbs are all excellent routes, with only 20 feet between them, classic challenges for all who visit. The sky darkened again while a small cloud drifted over dropping a few sprinkles on us. We held our ground this time, and were rewarded with warm sunshine and blue skies once it passed. By late afternoon, our stomachs were growling. We packed up and headed for Mexican food at Cancun, then returned to the flight park for the night.

Sunday morning brought ideal conditions. We hiked north of Sunset Rock today to visit more of our favorite climbs, Ghost Dancer 5.8*, and Thin Pockets 5.8*. These two are "must do" routes if you visit Sunset Rock. Ghost Dancer follows a crack (difficult start) to a small roof split by a large crack. Clear the roof (crux), climb the crack to the top. Thin pockets weaves it's way up a series of small crimpy holds and edges on a smooth face with a single bolt in the middle. Pass left or right of the bolt (right preferred), a delicate dance to a position below a bulge split by a large crack. Climb the crack to the top. Both climbs are about 60 feet high. Jason led Ghost Dancer, Wayne led Thin Pockets, and the group took turns riding the ropes on these entertaining climbs. Wayne also set up Dirty Dancing 5.6 (this lead is x rated - virtually no good protection on the 50 foot climb, a dangerous route to lead) .

Enlarge photo of Jackie on Second Sun

Satisfied with the mornings efforts, we packed up a little afternoon, and made our way down Lookout Mountain for lunch before our drive home to Gainesville. Good times, good climbs. Our luck prevailed with the weather. I can't wait for the next trip!

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