4/29/99 - Sunset Rock, Chattanooga, Tennessee

It had been way too long. Almost two years had passed since my last visit to Sunset Rock. Much has changed. Most notably, a climbing management plan has been enacted by the National Park Service.

Admittedly, such a plan was necessary. The easy access to high quality routes makes Sunset a popular urban climbing spot with obvious climber impact to the environment. Erosion at the base and top of cliffs, devegetation, damage to trees and multiple use visitation were all issues that needed to be addressed. A plan was adopted, with public input, and the resulting compromises are unfolding. Currently, the extremely popular and historically classic faces within view of and including Sunset Rock are closed to climbing. However, the plan calls for the installation of permanent anchors along the cliff tops, and the next steps to reopen Sunset Rock to climbing should be taken soon. While it is distressing to see such a large section of superb rock climbing off limits, the area closed is only a small fraction of the miles of intermittent cliffs that make up the area commonly referred to as Sunset Park.

Jeff Braund, Nick Bosse, and I spent the previous night camped about 20 minutes from Lookout Mountain at the Lookout Mountain Flight Park landing zone. It's the least expensive option at a mere $3 per night to pitch your tent at the edge of the large meadow used as a landing field by the hang glider pilots who frequent the area.

We made our way to Sunset Rock a bit late, but were pleased to find ample parking in the tiny lot. Those who came later would suffice for a spot behind the Visitor Center at Point Park. We contented ourselves today with the selection of fine routes located to the north of the rock. Jeff wanted to try some fresh routes, and selected Copperhead 5.7 as a suitable challenge. He led the route, and I followed him to the top. I rigged a rope to allow climbing of Crazy Eight's 5.8+ and another on Lichen To Lose It 5.10a. We spent the meat of the day on these routes, then moved back towards Sunset Rock in time to meet Jackie Busch and Cheri Elkins. The rest of the afternoon was played out on 1-10 5.6, until a passing thunderstorm frightened me into abandoning any further climbing for the day. We dined that evening at one of our favorite bistro's, >Mud Pies located downtown, across the river, near Rock Creek Outfitters(local climbing gear shop). It was pleasant sleeping that night at the landing zone.      

Saturday,  we went to the north of Sunset Rock again, this time for a visit to some of our favorite climbs - Ghost Dancers 5.8 and Thin Pockets 5.8. We looked at rigging Spring Break 5.8 as well, but were afraid of causing damage to a young tree spreading it's branches across the route. I led Ghost Dancers, and rigged ropes on the two climbs. We'd no sooner started taking turns at each of them when Jason Hale arrived. The bulk of the morning was devoted to climbing these routes as well as more difficult variations of them.

We next moved a bit further north where Jason led up Fat Crack 5.8. I followed, expecting to rig it for climbing, but chose instead to drop a rope on nearby Terriers in Trouble 5.8. A second rope was set up between Fat Crack and Heavy Hands. We climbed four routes in this short area ranging from 5.6 - 5.10 in difficulty, something for everyone to enjoy. A couple of these routes showed no evidence of prior ascents, therefore we chose names for two of them. Thus are born Dirty Dancing 5.6, and Dirty Dog 5.8 so named for the heavy growth of flaky lichens that covered them both. As the afternoon passed, out thoughts turned more and more towards our stomachs. Dinner this evening was again found downtown at the Cancun Mexican restaurant. We passed another happy night at the flight park.  

Barry Wagner was waiting for us Sunday morning at Sunset Rock. We ventured half an hours walk south today,  to visit a selection of familiar climbs. I led Airbrush 5.6, and rigged a rope on it for all to enjoy. Jason Hale joined us again, as did Andy Mitchell. Andy was kind enough to lead Blonde Ambition 5.7, and rig a rope on it as well as one suitable for climbing Jugular Vein 5.7 and Second Sun 5.9. We passed the best part of the day climbing on these classic routes. By early afternoon, most of the party left for the long drive back to Gainesville, Atlanta, etc. Barry, Jackie and I stayed behind, and returned to the north end to climb 1-10. You can only imagine our disappointment when Charlie Spearman, Chief Ranger for Chattanooga and Chickamaugua National Military Park, informed us the immediate area was included in the current closure. We chose to retreat to our cars, and get an early start on the long drive home.

Access issues continue to be the most imminent threat to climbing. As more people discover the sport, impact becomes a greater concern. You can help by supporting the efforts of the Access Fund.

Submitted by Wayne Busch

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