Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina Report, July 18th. - 20th.

Named for it's resemblance in silhouette to a seaman's telescope, Looking Glass Rock, near Brevard, North Carolina, tapers quickly larger from it's small southeastern end to a height of almost 600 ft. at the northwestern tip. It presents a huge white granite dome of excellent rock with peculiar "eyebrow" formations pock-marking the otherwise smooth faces. It is immersed in the lush Pisgah National Forest which blocks any continuous view of the long stone expanses, but the distances driven between trailheads will impress you with a sense of it's immensity and the ruggedness of the area.  I'd heard of Looking Glass several times before, particularly when climbing at Table Rock ,- "If you like Table Rock, you'll love Looking Glass" .  It was sound advice. I do like climbing at Table Rock, and I think I'm going to love Looking Glass.

Enlarge photo of the South Face

My wife, Jackie, doesn't care much for slab climbing, and new there would be a lot of friction at Looking Glass. I had to troll for a partner for quite a while before Mary Weber of Ocala called. Jeff and Chris Braund were also looking to learn multi-pitch climbing, and had the time available. Once the ball got rolling, Jackie couldn't resist, and joined the climbing team.

We picked up Jeff on our way out of Gainesville, Friday morning. The drive was a surprisingly short 8 hours. Mary was staying at the Riverbend R.V. Park in Lake Toxaway, 25 minutes west of town. We found her around dinner time, and waited a while for Jeff's brother and his wife Karen, who we're coming in from Columbia, SC. After an hour we couldn't take the suspense and headed to the mountain to see what lay ahead - we'd rendezvous tomorrow morning at the trailhead.

The shortest access to the rock is at The Nose, about 15 minutes hiking. We passed the secluded primitive camping area on the twisting gravel forest road as we wound three miles up and into the dense woods. Parking at the small trailhead, we hiked to the base of the mountains greatest rise, The Nose area. The trail emerges at the bottom of  a climb called Peregrine 5.9. The Nose 5.8* is just a few feet to the left. An article in Climbing Magazine a couple years ago has made it the most popular route in the area, and even late in the day there were two parties on it. The views were inspiring. We decided to try to avoid the crowds and warm up elsewhere in the morning. Returning to town, we ate at the familiar El Chapala Mexican Restaurant. There is another at the base of Table Rock, in Morganton. Coincidence? Only one of many similarities between the two mountains.

We pitched our tents that night in the primitive camping site in the ravine across from the Slick Rock trailhead. The creek below Slick Rock Falls cascaded nearby, making for easy sleeping amongst the shady rhododendrons. We awoke to a pleasant morning, cool and misty. I squatted on the ground behind the van, and heated the water for breakfast on our tiny stove. The usual coffee , O.J., and oatmeal got me started. Jackie packed our lunch, the gear was organized, and the rest of our party arrived. By the time the six of us (and Jake the dog) set out for the South Face area, it was getting hot.

See larger view of the group

The trail from Slick Rock Falls follows the tumbling creek uphill for a while, then up a steeper ridge to the South Face area. Jake investigated every pool of cold stream water along the way, then shared his baths with the rest of us with a good shake or two once back on the trail. I had shed my shirt and was drenched with sweat at the end of the long hike in. We found the immediate area to be occupied by a large group from a nearby girls camp. Several top ropes had been rigged on the popular climbs like Bloody Crack 5.8* and Short Man's Sorrow 5.6, but I liked what I saw above, and decided we would go up from here.

There were other great climbs nearby we could have done, but I was feeling adventurous and saw a lot of potential in our group. While the others scoured their guide books for options, I picked out a line that scaled the wall immediately in front of us, then connected with the section of  Bloody Crack above the Camps anchors. A tree on a small ledge high above looked like a good place to anchor the second pitch, but the route above that was hidden by a bulge.  I asked the girls leader if they'd mind if we started here, letting them know we planned to climb above and be out of their way soon. Consent obtained, we roped up.

I'd previously led parties of  four climbers - a slow and laborious process. We had five today, but despite the potential for congestion and confusion, we moved very well together. I kept the first pitch short, hopping up 75 feet to the large ledge from which the Camp had rigged anchors. I brought Jackie up, then Mary. I took off on the second pitch, while Mary brought up Chris and Jeff. Karen and Jake remained behind to watch our packs.

View larger image of Wayne

The second pitch was the most interesting, particularly the top section of  Bloody Crack. The crack is on the open face below for the first pitch, but here it is found at the base of a vertical wall on the left, with a smooth friction face to ascend. The steep face leads up to a good sized roof, forming a corner where the left wall joins it. I first evaluated the corner, then the roof, rejecting them both.  I backed down along the left wall until I found a reasonable hold, and swung out onto the exposed face. This would be the most memorable move on the otherwise placid route. I continued, now on previously unseen ground until my 200 ft. rope was almost used up. I threw in five good anchors below another bulge, and Jackie started up.

My hanging belay was not on extreme ground, but would get crowded as the others came up. I recognized the tree on the small ledge 40 ft. to my right, and directed Jackie to it when she appeared below me. She then brought me over to her - much better. It was noonday hot now, and the sky was becoming heavy with gray clouds. The wind picked up a couple times, and we started paying a lot of attention to the atmospheric dynamics. Jackie prepared for a quick rappel while I belayed the team. By the time the others came up, things had settled down, but we kept one eye on the sky from then on.

The views were fantastic. Perched 100 feet above the tree tops, the mountain revealed itself to us, framed by the hazy horizon of neighboring peaks. The white domes radiated when the sun hit them. The young voices below had faded to silence. A plane dove low circling the mountain, the drone of its engine echoed and amplified by the rock. We could pick out tiny climbers on ledges half a mile distant in both directions, as well as others closer. We were all eager for another pitch of climbing.

Returning to below the bulge, I continued upward, the angle becoming less steep as the rock rolled inward to the wooded summit half a mountain above me. I moved quickly on the easier ground, the distance between anchors becoming longer, needed only to control the direction of the rope. I used the length of the 200 foot rope again, this time crawling up under the cool branches of a large pine to end the pitch. Jackie came up, and took over belaying duty. While she brought the others up, I started bushwhacking through the stand of small trees. I climbed a slopey slab to another stand of trees, fought my way through it, and found the last long section of climbing to the summit. I again climbed the last 200 feet unroped, and stood at the edge of the forest on the summit ridge. Great view. The weather was holding. I'd climbed this mountain.    

Go to larger image

By the time I had returned from my explorations, the last of the group was coming up into the trees. Everyone was in high spirits, and thankful for the shade. We gulped down water and snacks. I waited until they started to get relaxed and comfortable to tell them I'd been to the top. Jackie stayed behind to set up for our descent while I led Mary, Chris, and Jeff through the first tangle of gnarly brush and trees. Crossing the slab unroped was a little tenuous for the three of them, and the slippery entrance into the next stand of trees was welcome. Another fight through the briars and deadwood led out onto the final expanse to the top.

This was a long crossing for those new to friction climbing, but low angled enough to be safe. Glancing at 500 feet of air over your shoulder is awfully unnerving when there is nothing to hang on to. We made our way up the undulating slope, avoiding wet areas and slippery mosses. When we reached the summit, they had "the look". Going down is even less friendly, but we all returned to the shady tree intact.

I started our descent by lowering to a small but stout pine tree about 50 feet below us. Our shady pine tree had too many branches which could entangle a rope when we pulled them down behind us. I tied two ropes together, looped them around the lone pine, and threw them below me. I tied off to the tree as each above first rappelled to me, then down on the ropes I'd dropped below. I came down last, pulling the ropes from around the trees, slinging them over the next and dropping them below. We continued this way to the ground. Karen and Jake were waiting at the bottom, the Camp group gone for the day.

I was hinting we should head for the cool waters of Sliding Rock as we neared the ground, but the lure of the rock was too strong and before long I'd set a top rope on the first pitch of Bloody Crack. We all took a turn, and it lived up to it's name for most, with sore knuckles from the greasy awkward jam required to pull the crux move. I concluded my day with a climb of the blank face to the left of the crack, pure steep friction at its best. Drained by the heat, I was finished for the day.

See larger view of falls

By the time we'd hiked down to the van, I had become convinced it would be a great idea to return with Mary to Riverbend Park where we could camp conveniently close to hot showers. I paused at Slick Rock Falls to let the cold waterfall trickle over my head, then cooled my insides with a cold bottle of Guinness Stout at the van. The tents were retrieved from the campsite. On our way back to town, we detoured to see Looking Glass Falls and Sliding Rock.  Next came a stop for Chinese dinner on the way to Lake Toxaway.  We talked late into the night, planning an early start in the morning to try and grab The Nose 5.8*. I went to bed expecting adventure only to have my dreams crushed by a heavy downpour. There'd be no climbing after a rain like this.

The only casualty that night was Jeff, who was sleeping alone in an old tent he borrowed (from me). When the leaks became too severe, he crawled into the van, much to Jackie's surprise when she opened it in the morning. Mary was ready outside the tent at 06:30, while we slumbered in our bags convinced the day was ruined. Even so, we grabbed a quick breakfast, and headed for the mountain. Pleasantly surprised to find the rain had not been widespread, we unloaded and hit the trail. My hopes were again confounded when I emerged from the woods to find a party of four just setting up for the climb. We set down on our gear, ready to wait our turn. We waited all day.

View larger image of The Nose

We did get as high as the first pitch. But the group above was having difficulties, and we abandoned the effort rather than spend a long hot day waiting behind them. Other routes were now taken. We left a top rope on the first pitch, and practiced passing knots past a belay device, building anchors, and a few rescue skills until the heat chased us back to the cars. As we were leaving, a gray bearded man arrived with a group of boys. It turned out to be Steve Longenecker with a group from Falling Creek Camp. Steve is responsible for many of the first ascents at Looking Glass and was featured in Climbing Magazine. We visited the 2 outfitters in Brevard, then headed back to Riverbend to go our separate ways.

Everyone enjoyed Looking Glass. The freedom of climbing to the top via our own route was a reward to be savored. It's also a gem to discover such a great place so close. It's the closest climbing in North Carolina, just as close to us as Chattanooga, Tennessee. I'm sure to return to  Looking Glass. The Nose waits patiently.

See larger photo of group

Some Brevard Links

Brevard, North Carolina info
Waterfall Series
Map of Brevard / Transylvania County, N.C.
Looking Glass Outfitters
Wally Wallace
Falling Creek Camp
Sarasota Mountaineering Club
Steve Longenecker
Mountain Adventures!

Looking Glass Rock, NC climbing area page
Looking Glass Gallery

How to send your Trip Report

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