Trip Reports - 7/14/00 - Linville Gorge - First Steps On Big Stone

By Wayne Busch

I can't ever remember conditions being this good at Table Rock, North Carolina. The days were warm, winds calm. Hazy skies kept the sun from baking down on us. The swarms of biting flies that commonly plague climbers must have gone to the beach for the holiday weekend. The evenings cooled just enough to make sleeping comfortable. What a great setting for an introduction to multi-pitch climbing for my friend Stu Estes.

Enlarge group summit photo

We drove north on Friday through heavy traffic, taking the typical 11 hours to complete the trek. We grabbed dinner at El Chapala Mexican Restaurant in Morganton, then headed up NC 181 into the mountains. Once at elevation, the next 9 miles followed unimproved forest roads to the small parking lot near Table Rock Mountain.   It was quiet, only half full tonight, but I expected it to swell to capacity over the long weekend. It was a quiet and restful night.

Jim Orofino joined us in the parking lot Saturday morning. We started out for Table Rock to practice the techniques of multi-pitch climbing. I'd been top-roping a few times with both Stu and Jim, but this would be our first time un-tethered to the ground. We started on the easiest route I know, The Cave Route 5.4, following it two pitches to the Lunch Ledge. From here, we climbed The Block Route 5.6, a single pitch that emerges at a trail system that eventually leads to the summit of the mountain.

View larger photo of Stu rappelling

Pausing for lunch, and to allow Stu to savor the experience of climbing his first mountain, we headed down the trail on the backside of  Table Rock that leads back to the parking area. As we started down, Jim mentioned that on his last visit he had done some rappelling in the Devil's Cellar, accessible from a side trail during our descent. When I told them it was possible to rappel from the top of the Devil's Cellar all the way underground into the cave that gives the area it's name, they both wanted to see that. We detoured, and amused ourselves with the unique experience of a free hanging rappel that enters the cave through a narrow chute in it's ceiling. It's a simple matter to then walk out the mouth of the cave and scramble back to the top again.

From the Devil's Cellar, we followed the trail to the base of  Table Rock, then retraced our path back to the East face. The most popular climb on this face is Jim Dandy 5.5, and it was open now. Jim Orofino chose to sit this one out, while Stu an I ascended. I led to the first ledge, and Stu followed diligently. I started out on the second pitch, a long bolted traverse that diagonals up the East face of the mountain at an angle of about 45 degrees. As I clipped the first bolt, I looked ahead for the second. I saw it, but wait... that wasn't right, the angle was too high, there lower, was the correct bolt. This previously unnoticed higher bolt intrigued me.

"How about some adventure?" I called down to Stu. "I see a new bolt, let's see where it leads". I took off on the new path. As expected, another bolt appeared above, then another, continuing at the higher angle via easy ground to a belay station in the middle of the face. From here, the easy ground continued for the next pitch to the Lunch Ledge. Stu followed, joining me at the ledge.

"That was pretty easy", I commented. " I see another new bolt, and this route looks a lot more interesting". Out on the expanse of rock next to the Lunch Ledge, a shiny new bolt sat in isolation. Another could be seen above it, the route leading up and through the same overhanging ledge that forms the Block Route. It turned out to be a little more difficult than the previous climb, about the same as the Block Route. We rappelled back to the Lunch Ledge, then scrambled down and back around to rejoin Jim Orofino. The three of us returned to the parking lot, and Jim departed for his motel. We were joined later that night by Trisha Stoops.

The next morning, we packed up and headed out on the 45 minute hike south to the Amphitheater. The weather was again ideal; warm, but with enough breeze it wasn't hot, just enough haze to keep the sun from burning down on us with a few clouds darting by to provide additional relief. I chose The Prow 5.4 as the best climb for our party. It's the least vertical of the popular choices in the Amphitheater, and also one of the most scenic.

See larger view of Jim on The Prow

Bushwhacking through the slippery steep tangle of rhododendrons, we made our way down into the gorge to emerge higher on the great lower apron of the Prow than expected. From this level only a few pitches remained, but they were the better ones of the route. Trish and I alternated leads, ladies first, and we emerged at the top of the wall in time for a late lunch. We enjoyed it in the cool shade of a huge cavernous rock. Ideally, we had hoped next to return to the floor of the Amphitheater and climb either the Mummy 5.5 or the Daddy 5.6, but both routes were choked with large teams of slow-moving climbers. I watched the parties on the Mummy Buttress while we ate, and arrived at the conclusion it would be nearly dark before we reached the top at the rate they were ascending. We could get in much more climbing if we returned to Table Rock.

An hour later, we rounded the corner to the North Face in search of Second Stanza 5.8+.   Trish had selected this climb for it's increasing difficulty. She would lead the first 5.6 pitch and the second 5.7 pitch, if I would take the last 5.8+ pitch. I agreed. It was difficult to locate the start of the climb, and I remained dubious we were in the correct location. The route above looked harder than 5.6 to me, but Trish was enthusiastic and started up the route. She soon encountered difficulties.

Enlarge photo of Jim and Trisha

The route was indeed harder than expected and Trish was soon struggling fairly desperately with an awkward problem. It was getting the best of her, yet she refused to retreat until she was exhausted. Stu grew nervous  watching a more experienced climber rejected by the rock. She was so close. It was my turn. I cruised it, but it was no picnic, at least 5.9 I thought to myself. While securing to the pine tree at the top of the first pitch, I  learned my assumption was correct. Consulting the guidebook, Trish found we were on the Direct Start version of Second Stanza, the first pitch was rated 5.9+. Stu followed me up, then Trish who resumed the position of leader.

The next pitch was easier, though not without challenge ending in a dramatic alcove high on the North face of  Table Rock. Since it was already after 6 PM, we chose to return to the ground. There would not be enough daylight to finish the next two pitches. We rappelled and hiked back to the parking lot to cook dinner.

Stu and I left before sun up the next morning, to get home in time for Fourth of July celebrations. I feel lucky to have been able to share these good times with Trish, Jim, and Stu, and look forward to climbing with all of them again.

See larger view of Stu on The Prow

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