Trip Reports - 5/5/00 - Nasal Passages - The Nose, Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina

By Wayne Busch and Trish Stoops

Conditions were perfect. The stillness of the morning gave birth to a gentle breeze as the day warmed, just enough to drive away the swarms of biting flies that had plagued us earlier. Dapples of sunlight played warmly on my shoulders as it filtered through the newly green trees. Nearly noon, hiking on the the Slick Rock Falls trail, I couldn't image better climbing conditions. I was going home.

I 'd decided to leave when I awoke Saturday morning . Nothing would top yesterday. We'd climbed three of the most classic routes on the Nose section of  Looking Glass Rock. The weather had been perfect. Best of all, we had the whole area to ourselves giving us our choice of climbs. No waiting.  My partners were exceptional. Until Friday morning we'd never met. The whole trip came together over the Internet. I was a little skeptical of climbing with complete strangers. Now, looking back at our accomplishments, I look forward to the next opportunity to share a rope with any of the wonderful climbers I came to know.

I wrestled with priorities. I hadn't spent a full day with my wife in two weeks. It would be another two weeks before our paths would cross again. Now that she was at home, I was in North Carolina. I'd had my rewards climbing. If I scurried home, we could have a precious day together this weekend. Selfishly, abandoning my new climbing friends, I chose to depart for home a day early.  I left them around noon on Saturday.

Enlarge photo of The Nose

Friday had been a day we would remember for some superb climbing. It had fed the hunger for big stone that had been gnawing at my psyche for some time. Too much top-roping lately. I needed to break free of the ground and get on something big.  I missed North Carolina. I wanted wide open spaces, lots of air underneath me, acres of stone before me, and a view few without wings ever see. The Nose section of Looking Glass Rock satisfies those criteria in spades. I emerged from my van Friday morning to meet James Naus, awakening in the back of the pickup truck parked next to me. Trish Stoops was camped below us a short distance. We made introductions, ate breakfast, and packed for the day. By unanimous opinion, we decided to head straight for the Nose. We hoped an early start would give us a chance to get on the classic 5.8 route, before the crowds arrived. With weather this good, I was sure it wouldn't be long before the masses appeared. I felt lucky to find the small parking area near the trailhead leading to the Nose empty when we arrived. It looked like we would at least get to climb our route.

It went like clockwork. Trish started us by leading the first pitch. We climbed well together, everyone experienced and comfortable in the environment. We swapped leads throughout the day.  As our team was starting the second pitch, another climber emerged from the canopy below. Jim Evans called up to us. Though we offered to drop him a rope and have him join our team, he had a project he was working on nearby, and would rope solo the other route today. James took the second pitch, Trish the third. I led the last to the top of the great dome. Fortune smiled upon us when we rappelled to the base - the rope got stuck. So far, we were the only ones there. No one would be coming along behind us to untangle our rope for us.  It was the perfect excuse to lead the first pitch of Peregrine 5.9 to free it.

I really enjoyed the lead to the belay station, a long one on some fun rock. There are two tricky bulges to clear on the way up. Still, no one else in sight, I urged Trish and James to give the route a try. They two enjoyed it's challenges. We liked it so much, I decided to continue upwards. The next pitch was very thin, a series of delicate slabby face moves protected by three micro TCU's. I escaped onto the Parking Lot ledge atop the third pitch, and we rappelled to the ground. That had been a lot of fun.

Two more climbers arrived. They climbed the first couple pitches of the Nose, and then Sundial 5.8. They were just coming down off Sundial as we finished lunch. I couldn't believe our luck. I'd been waiting for the opportunity to climb the route, it had always been occupied on previous visits. Now, it would be ours. Trish would take the first lead. The second went to me. The third was done by Trish, and I took us onto the Parking Lot Ledge. We skipped the last pitch since we'd already done the best parts. It's an easy roll to the summit above. Again, we rappelled to the base. A party of four was starting up the Nose. We contributed to their efforts with some insect repellent - the swarms of tiny flies became more fierce as the sun drew low. Our day was done.

We celebrated a great day of climbing with a Cinco de Mayo dinner at El Chapala Mexican Restaurant on the edge of town. I informed my partners of my decision climb for only half the day at breakfast. Jim Evans arrived, and we set off for the South Wall. Jim led the way up Second Coming 5.8, one of the few dry routes in the shade of the morning. As the sun hit the rock, the water would dry and most of the popular routes would be accessible. I followed him up both pitches, then we rappelled down Zodiac 5.8+, stopping half -way to build a toprope anchor. At this point, I packed up and hiked out. Trish takes over from here.

Enlarge photo approaching the ledge

Trish's Report:

I'm trying to remember when it was that you left. I know that you and Jim went up SECOND COMING and then decided to set up a toprope on ZODIAC (5.8+) because most of the climbs were still a little too wet to lead. But I can't remember whether or not you got to climb it before you left. I do remember that after we climbed it, we all kind of agreed that it didn't look like a really well protectable crack -- and I don't think anyone would have felt like leading no matter how dry or wet the rock was.

The next thing we did was GEMINI CRACK (5.8-). I got to lead it, and Jim and James followed. I felt really comfortable at the bottom and (due to the fact that I sewed up the crux with a ton of pro) I ended up feeling pretty darn comfortable at the crux too -- and then -- whoops (much to my surprise) my stupid little foot slipped right out of that darn crack! I almost had the thing! I almost led it clean! (Can I blame it on wet rock?) okay... excuses, excuses. Anyway, I made it to the top (not quite as gracefully as I would have liked) and I did the whole climb in one pitch (instead of 2) with a 60' meter rope -- but the rope drag was getting pretty heavy by the time I reached the tree. Jim & James came up after me... and they just cruised the climb. They didn't even slow down at the crux --show offs : )

After that we were thinking about trying the other 5.8 (just to the left of Gemini Crack - I forget what it's called) but the rock was still a little wet and James and I just weren't up for leading it under those conditions. Jim (from North Carolina) probably could have done it with his eyes closed, but unfortunately, his play time was over and he had to go home (he had some things to take care of around the house) so we sorted gear and said our good-byes. (However, even after sorting gear, I still ended up with Jim's orange TCU so Wayne, if you have an address for him please send it to me quickly so that I can put this thing in the mail to him before I leave for my trip).

Enlarge photo of Parking Lot Ledge

After Jim left James and I headed over towards Left Up, Right Up, Bloody Crack and all of the other climbs in that bunch. BLOODY CRACK (5.8) was one of the few dry climbs that was open, so James geared up and jumped right on it. The crack wasn't really all that "bloody" but it sure was polished! James led the first pitch beautifully, and then I got up there and just started flailing! There was this one high slotted left hand hold that I just couldn't reach and what seemed like an obvious smear that should have brought me within reach of that hold was nothing but a smoothly polished bit of sheer worthlessness! According to the two kids that were hanging out at the base of the climb (watching me flail) the climb used to go at 5.8, but since that one foothold is now useless, some say its more like a 5.9. I was beginning to think so... until one of the kids pointed down at a spot in the crack that would bring my right foot up 4 inches higher and bring my left hand just within fully extended (near-dyno) reach of that slotted little eyebrow.... (dah!) it was so obvious... and yet, it seems that so many people seem to miss the one little tiny step up that will lead them into the crux move. (Once you get your hand on the hold, you still have to move through the crux.... but the sequence is quite doable.... provided you can find your way there. (If you're 6'-5" like James, then you won't need to worry about finding that piddly little extra 4"... because that left handhold will probably be AT YOUR ELBOW! : ) It was a fun little pitch, but it was way too short. And since the second pitch was soaking wet, and we had to pass on it, BLOODY CRACK is now embedded in memories as a short little boulder problem ..... instead of "climb."

We were still waiting for SECOND COMING (5.7) to open up, so James caught a quick ride up SHORT MAN'S SORROW (5.6) on someone else's rope while we waited..... and then it was our turn! SECOND COMING here we come! James led the first pitch and he just made the crux look SO darn easy. I cleaned up after him, and then picked up the rack from him at the belay and led on through. The second pitch was a lot longer and more sustained than the first, but the crux move of this climb is definitely on the first pitch... however, there is one awkward little move at the top of the second pitch (right before you start traversing over to the rap tree) and its totally safe because you can put a piece in right before you do the move (but what am I telling you all this for Wayne? You've already been there, done that....) but for those of you who haven't -- remember NOT to do what I did -- or your second will be a very unhappy camper...... Because, well, you see... ah, dah.... I protected that last move BEFORE I DID IT -- and then I didn't place any more gear after that because the rest of the pitch was a total breeze..... BUT... dah : ( I can't believe I forgot about poor James........ he cleaned the last piece of gear right below the move, and then had to do it UNPROTECTED whilst looking at the possibility of some MAJOR PENDULUM POTENTIAL.... all compliments of "yours truly." I know better than that -- what's up with that? (So Wayne..... this is intended for your reading enjoyment.... but if you want to include any of it in the trip report, please edit it down to the basics (and if you would, leave out that last little bit of sheer stupidity -- just 'til I've had a chance to climb with a few people and they see for themselves that I'm not a TOTAL airhead : ) : ) Anyway... that climb was AWESOME!

When we got back down to the ground there was still quite a bit of daylight left (it was only about 6:00 PM) so I led SHORT MAN'S SORROW and James cleaned.... It was another really good day!

We went back down to camp and washed up in the stream....., cooked up some noodles for dinner, and I crawled into bed and fell right to sleep. I think James stayed up and visited with some folks around their campfire.... but maybe he went to bed early as well.

The next morning we got off to a leisurely start (because I forgot my alarm clock, and James decided to let me sleep until I woke up on my own.... BIG MISTAKE.... I am not one of those people who can wake up without an alarm clock -- so he waited, and waited, and waited, and at 9:00 he finally decided it was time to wake me up. I fully agreed! Steve showed up with a group of kids (10-13 year olds) and those guys (including James and some other folks) talked and sorted gear while I packed up my tent and the rest of my gear... and then we slowly made our way up the trail. I was really anxious to follow up on RAT'S ASS (5.8) but I was not at all anxious to lead it. James said he might be up for it... and from then on, that was all I was thinking about! When we got there it was still a little wet, and we watched a party of 3 slowly working their way up it. At first, James thought he was up for it.... but then the last guy in the party ahead of us started slippin' and slidin' all over the rock.... and James began to have second thoughts. We decided to head right and see what else was open and dry further down. LEFT UP was something that we had both been wanting to do.... but when we got there it was still too wet to lead on. But GOOD INTENTIONS (5.6) looked doable. James led up without a hitch, and I followed after. We were hoping to hop on AFTERBIRTH (5.6) when we reached the ledge -- but everything up there was soaking wet (just like the day before) -- so much for that idea.

While we were going up GOOD INTENTIONS there were 2 guys heading over to do RAT'S ASS so I asked them if they wouldn't mind trailing a rope for us and then belaying one of us... (and we'd set our own anchor at the first belay and let them continue on their merry way) then one of use could lead the second (easier) pitch... and that way we'd still get the climb in... but no one would have to get overly sketched on leading the slippery part of the first pitch -- The guys said "sure" so we hurried up with our climb and then headed over to meet them. When we got their the guy on lead was having a pretty hard time with it... and it was taking him longer than he expected it would. After he had reached the belay and settled in, his second (after noting the difficulty experienced by his friend -- apparently the stronger climber of the two) looked over at us, shook his head, and said "I think this might take me awhile" -- and "awhile" was more time than we had to spare. By this time it was after 2:00 and James didn't want to get back too too late Sunday night.... so we agreed to keep it at a half day...... but alas.... When we had rappelled from GOOD INTENTIONS... James had gone first and he backed up the rap ring with a locking biner... then asked me to clean it before I rapped down --- well, I'm used to rapping off of whatever is there and when it comes time for me to rap, there is NEVER anything more for me to do except clip into my figure 8, and unclip the locking biner that is attached to the sling that is girth-hitched to my harness, and then wrap that sling around my waist... and I'm GONE! I have set it up that way to ENSURE that I don't end up leaving anything behind at the anchor... (If I keep changing my system then it will leave more room for error and forgetfulness) but in this case... I got so used to a certain pattern that I didn't even bother to look to see if I had gotten everything (I just took it for granted that there should be nothing else left to get) BIG MISTAKE So James locking biner was still one pitch up there... and the only way to get it -- was to do the climb again.

So the last day we only did one climb. And we did it over, and over and over again.... There's more to that story, but I'll wait to tell you about it until after you've had at least 3 or 4 of those margaritas (just kidding). You see, once you left we just fell to pieces and we REALLY, REALLY MISSED YOU : (

Good Climbing,

Trish Stoops

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