Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

Search this site:

Trip Reports - Table Rock / Linville Gorge, North Carolina
May 22-25, 1998

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jillian, Jason, and Jackie, on Table RockSee larger view of group

All Things in Moderation

By Wayne and Jackie Busch

Summary:  Unusually warm weather this holiday weekend allowed 9 of us to enjoy climbing many of the moderate classics at Table Rock and Linville Gorge. For half of those attending, it was an introduction to mulit-pitch routes and roped-team climbing. Everyone enjoyed summiting Table Rock, and the spectacular climbs in the Gorge will be in our memories forever.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jeff leads the third pitch of Jim DandyEnlarge image of Jeff

"There is getting to be a disturbing amount of gray in my beard", I thought to myself, as I examined the three day stubble in the visor mirror as we barreled southward on I-77 through North Carolina. I scratched at one of the annoying bites on my ankles, and rubbed the welts on the back of my neck. I exuded an aura of bug repellent, sweat, and stone. Life couldn't have been better.

Jason Hale, Jeff Braund, Jackie and I did our best Friday morning to cram all our climbing and camping gear into the van so there would be enough room for an least one person to stretch out - we were only marginally successful. It was a long ride ahead, normally 10 1/2 hours, but we had included a detour this time through Atlanta to visit Mountain Ventures which would add to our travel time considerably. It had to be done though, as my superstitious instincts tell me you must appease the Climbing Gods with offers of currency if you want to be blest with good climbing. The Gods were grinning from ear-to-ear when we left the store.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jillian, Jackie, and Wayne at the topView larger photo of group

Needless to say, the moon was high when we pulled into the small parking lot at Table Rock. Chris Braund, Karen Van Sickler, Chase Crowson and Jillian Edwards were there to greet us. We pulled into the last open parking space, threw on our packs, and followed them to a familiar campsite on the wooded ridge. Camp went up quickly, and we spent a warm night sleeping well.

Saturday morning was typically gray, as almost all mornings are up on the ridge. The clouds sink down and envelope it at night, then burn off during the day. The sun filtered red through the blanket of thin mist. It was warm this morning. A heavy blue haze would hang in the air all weekend. Breakfast was warmed over hissing camp stoves. Climbing clothes were selected, lunches prepared, and we returned to the parking lot to gather the rest of the gear. As expected, there were climbers everywhere along the east face of the Table Rock, the most popular routes already taken. The best option appeared to be Jim Dandy 5.4, a three pitch classic traversing up and right to the Lunch Ledge. The group above was just leaving the first belay ledge, so I suggested we take advantage of the opportunity. We divided into two teams. Jason, Jackie, Jillian and I on one, Jeff, Chris, Karen, and Chase on the second. My team won the race to get prepared, and Jason zipped on up to the first ledge, kindly blazing his own route to leave the classic line for the second team.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Wayne claims pitons make fine spoonsSee larger photo of Wayne

We spent most of the morning ascending to the Lunch Ledge, Jason sneaking us through the traffic jams at the belay ledges by constructing his own at convenient locations on the way. Our group had already finished our lunch by the time our friends appeared below. As soon as a route above opened up, Jason again shot up to stay ahead of the mass ascending from below. The next pitch took us up the Block Route 5.5. By the time Jackie came up on the end of the last rope, I counted 16 people on the ledge below. There were people on route above as well, so we opted to take the 4th class scramble up a meandering trail to the top. We were greeted by strong winds and a horizon of indigo clouds threatening trouble. Staying long enough to cool off in the blustery breezes, we timed our departure with the arrival of the first drops. The quick sprinkle was barely enough to get things wet, a blessing for our friends still climbing below. They would have a long wait for their turn to climb.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jeff and Chris on The Mummy See larger image of Jeff and Chris

A cold beer rewarded us on our return to the parking lot. The weather was passing over, and we took a break to rehydrate and snag a snack or two. We bouldered for a couple hours amongst the rocks near the parking lot, but when that became too boring, I suggested we get in another climb.  There was plenty of daylight left, let's use it. The four of us headed back to the east side of Table Rock, finding the Helmet Buttress 5.6 open. A dissapointed Jackie had pulled her shoes out of her pack when we were bouldering, and left them at the car. She would miss this climb. Jason led to the first ledge, Jillian followed, then me. As the shadows lengthened, the vampirous insects started feasting on us like helpless baits hung on the mountainside. The second pitch has a very sketchy start, and Jillian had quite a thrill as she deftly inched her way through the first twenty feet. I swatted flies and provided as much encouragement as I could. We didn't dawdle long at the Lunch Ledge, rappelling just before darkness.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jason leading way out there on The ProwEnlarge image of Jason

Sunday morning was again gray and warm, though strong wind gusts through the night had us wondering if the weather would be less cooperative today. It was calm enough now though, and we decided to commit to the hike down to the Amphitheater on the east side of Linville Gorge. Karen would stay behind today, preferring a day of hiking and relaxing. It's about 45 minutes along the ridge line trail, then down through the woods to the rim of the Amphitheater. It is a small canyon off the main gorge, with exposed rock faces of more than 600 feet in some places, the Linville River's distant roar on the valley floor 1800 feet below. The expanse of the great canyon extends 5 miles to the north and south from this point, across the verdant gorge the Blue Ridge Mountains roll onto the great Smoky Mountain range on the western horizon. Everything in site impresses the eyes with unfathomable size and grandeur. It takes a few minutes to accommodate to it.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jillian and Jackie enjoy the viewSee larger photo of Jillian and Jackie

The often slippery and dangerous descent gully to the floor of the Amphitheater had actually become easier with the erosion caused by increased use. Where it had before been an slippery chute of wet mud and leaves, there were now small platforms, the trail widened. We would be able to climb back up it if necessary, a comforting thought if the weather turned sour. That would not be the case however, the day proved to be made to order and perfection. From the upper rim, we surveyed the three likely routes, all classic lines, we'd come to climb. Jeff and Chris scurried of to climb The Mummy 5.5, three delightful vertical pitches up the impressive Mummy Buttress. The remaining 5 of us crossed the Amphitheater floor to a point midway up the Prow 5.4, above the more sloping pitches near the base of the 600 foot high face. We climbed four pitches to gain the rim that afternoon. We spent the time waiting at belays watching Jeff and Chris progress up the 400 foot face on the opposite side of the canyon. Perrigrine falcons soared by, the sun did it's best to burn through the haze, and the welcome breezes were light. We reunited with Chris and Jeff at the point above the Prow, everyone satiated. Karen appeared, we swapped stories, and we all started hiking back to camp. Just past an high outcrop of rocks known as The Chimneys, we were surprised to run into Becky and Jay Wozny, more friends from Gainesville. The new arrivals joined us at camp, and we sadly said goodbye to Chase and Jillian, off to see family. It was great climbing with them!

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jason Hale on The Prow, Linville GorgeSee larger photo of Jason

Monday morning was warm and clear, well, except for the haze. Pale blue sky and and eagerly rising sun beckoned us to get to the rock. We'd have to drive home this afternoon, so it was back to Table Rock. Neither Jay nor Becky had climbed a multi-pitch route, so we chose a friendly introduction, the Cave Route 5.4, two pitches to the Lunch Ledge. We roped into one long six person team, and spent the morning on the pleasant climb. We rappelled after lunch, and repacked the cars our departure.

Such a great weekend. Everything blended so well. The climbs. The weather. The people. The location. Thanks to everyone who came along, we look forward to climbing with all of you again as soon as we can.

Submitted by - Jackie and Wayne

Linville Gorge Climbing Area page
Linville Gorge Gallery

How to send your Trip Report

Top of Page