Trip Reports - 5/14/03
The Nose, Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina

Wayne shows Jason some southern hospitality

Enlarge photo of Looking Glass Rock

I came across a post in rec.climbing asking about climbs around Asheville. Jason Liebgott was going to be in the area for a few days for a wedding, and was hoping to get on some rock. I asked him to give me call when he hit town, I might be looking for a partner.

We'd just been through a long week of soaking rains. It had been bad enough to cause some minor flooding in low areas and had really cut into my outdoor activities. The deluge ended Saturday, then it turned blustery. With a couple days for the rock to dry out, we were in business when Wednesday morning rolled around. The forecast called for possible afternoon showers, but it left plenty of time to run up a nice route before the storms. I called Jason Tuesday night, and we arranged to meet in the morning.

See larger image of Jason

I wasn't convinced the weather was going to let us climb as I drove from Waynesville to Asheville. I could see rain falling high in the clouds, but only a few drops drifted low enough to speckle my windshield. I pulled up in front of a small house on the south side of Asheville, and Jason came out to meet me. The skies grew a little brighter as we drove towards Brevard.

This was Jason's first day in North Carolina. He'd flown in from California the night before, and was still a little groggy from the jet lag. We paused in Brevard to run into the Buy-Lo for a few snacks, then drove into the Pisgah National Forest to the Sun Wall Trailhead. I was dismayed to find three cars and a large van in the small parking lot. I'd hoped the weather would have put off any other climbers, but we all think alike. Others saw the opportunity as well.

View bigger version of The Nose route

I had thought about an appropriate climb to introduce Jason to North Carolina. He is a veteran of Yosemite, and had climbed there just a few days ago. I wanted to take him to a climb that would be significant to a Yosemite climber, a classic route of high quality. The obvious choice from Asheville was The Nose 5.8 on Looking Glass Rock.

I hiked in dreading that we'd emerge at the base of the rock to find a huge group dominating the area. While there was a crowd, and all the popular routes were occupied, things were moving along and it appeared we'd not have to wait long. By the time we got rigged and ready, the route was clear and Jason led up his first southern stone.

See large image of Wayne and Jason

Though the skies at times grew dark during our climb, the rain held off and we had an enjoyable time. We were delayed only slightly waiting for parties above to move on. I think Jason enjoyed the experience of climbing the unique eyebrows of Looking Glass.

We rappelled down the face, and hiked back to the car. It was prudent to be satisfied the weather had granted us enough of a window to get in one good climb. To head back up on another was to invite trouble. We drove back to Asheville via the Blue Ridge Parkway so Jason could get a good view of the whole of Looking Glass Rock.

Submitted by Wayne Busch

Links to larger views of the photos can be found on the Looking Glass Gallery page.

Looking Glass Rock, NC climbing area page

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