Trip Reports - 3/26 - 3/29 - Looking Glass Rock, North Carolina

By Wayne and Jackie Busch

Summary:  Perfect weather made for a wonderful long weekend climbing the fine granite of Looking Glass Rock. We met several members of the Sarasota Mountaineering Club, and enjoyed the company of Looking Glass legend Steve Longenecker. Despite a very crowded weekend, we tackled many fine climbs with something for everyone to remember. 

Jeff Braund, my wife Jackie, and I left Gainesville, Florida, Thursday morning heading north to Brevard, North Carolina via Atlanta. After appeasing the climbing Gods with monetary sacrifices at Atlanta's REI store, we headed northeast on I-85 to the first exit in South Carolina. Turning north on SR 11, we wound through the mountains of South Carolina, then into North Carolina. From Brevard, we continued north into the Pisgah National Forest leaving the paved roads for gravel arriving at the Slick Rock Falls trailhead 20 minutes out of town around 6 p.m.

We established our base camp at a site about 10 minutes hike in on the South Wall Trail that would accommodate expected arrivals near the melodious stream which feeds the falls below. After our two tents went up, we hiked down to the van and drove into town for Mexican dinner at El Chapala. The restaurant is familiar to those who climb in North Carolina with several other locations including one near Table Rock. The food is tasty, service is good, and the inexpensive entrees fit a climbers' budget. After dinner a quick stop at the Bi-Lo supplied us with water, breakfast (oatmeal), and a six pack of frosty brews before we returned to camp for the night.

The night sky was clear through the towering tree branches above, just cool enough to make tent sleeping comfortable. A light sleeper, I awoke at 2 am. when I heard people approaching on the trail.  

"Wayne?", a voice asked.

"Mike?" I replied. So went our introduction to members of the Sarasota Mountaineering Club. Mike Soo, Peter Neame, and Terry ? pitched their tents and retired after an 11 hour trek up the interstate from Tampa.

We awoke to a perfect morning. Blue sky, a hint of chill, the hush of the stream the only sound in the still morning air. The hilltops surrounding us glowed with the morning sun working it's way down into our ravine.  The stoves came out and we dove into breakfast using a large flat rock as a community kitchen, the late arrivals cheery but weary after their short night's rest. Five tents now graced our little campsite, and more were expected tonight. When Sam and Francis Adams, and Marney Kuna of the Sarasota Club arrived, they graciously decided to move up the trail to the next clearing as we'd surely overrun the space we had available (was it my snoring?). The Sarasota group would head to the Nose area today with hopes of snagging one or two of the classic routes before the crowds arrived. Our trio headed up the trail to the South Wall. We were overtaken by my friend Steve Longenecker, Director of Adventure Programs at Falling Creek Camp, and first to climb Looking Glass and introductions were made all around. Steve went with the Sarasota group to the Nose, his original route up the 600 foot dome. We emerged at the base of the rock near Short Man's Sorrow 5.5.

The wet winter had saturated the earth above the cliffs so thoroughly they wept dark stains of water across much of the grey granite faces. Trickles and torrents, sheets and rivulets ran through the cracks and flowed over smooth bulges to the the ground. Still, there were dry areas, and we knew the situation would improve as the sun did it's work. Steve and another local guide, Wally Wallace had replaced a few old 1/4 rusted bolts on Lichen or Not 5.6, and another route nearby the day before with new bomber anchors hoping the addition of new safer belay anchors on these easy trad lead routes would relieve the concentration of climbers in this popular section. A dry band of rock a few feet wide led through the new bolts to a small wooded ledge. Ready for a warm up, Jeff hopped on it and led up to the new anchors for a first hand inspection. We joined him, but abandoned any ideas of going higher when we confronted the flowing water first hand.

The beautiful weather had brought climbers in from all over the U.S. Cars with tags from Ohio, Illinois, Pennsylvania, and states all over the east were parked along the dusty narrow forest road. They'd flocked south taking advantage of the longest stretch of nice weather since last fall. Florida was well represented as a group of a dozen or more climbers from the University of Florida top-roped Bloody Crack 5.8*, Right Up 5.9* and few sections of face to our left. Even more climbers were visible on most of the popular lines as far as could be seen. To our right, black water streaked the rock, sparkled in the strong sunshine for quite a distance until the wall ended in an enormous buttress. We'd seen climbers on it from a distance on previous trips, though the only route listed in the guidebook was B52 5.10A, two pitches. A rating this steep was a bit over our collective heads. Still, the beautiful butress stood there, dry ashen granite brilliant with sunlight, calling us towards it. Jeff was first to go - we just had to take a look.

See larger photo of B 52

I assume the route went more or less straight up the middle of the wall. I didn't. Blaming my poor choice of shoes (aka lack of ability), I abandoned the direct line for a serpentine trail leading from divot to pock mark, any place I could get in a piece of gear to secure me to the challenging barren rock. It was not done gracefully, but I arrived at a ledge with a bulging roof 10 feet above. Inspired by my conquest of the first pitch, I continued past the belay tree to inspect the roof above for any weakness I could exploit. One tricky move above the tree, two, three, then shit, I wasn't going to be able to climb back down. I was now committed to getting over the roof. On closer inspection the finger crack  at it's mid point appeared to be painfully difficult. But there was another  crack about three inches wide that cleft the great bulge hanging out over the edge of the buttress. In order to use the crack, I had to leave the safety of the last ledge below the roof, and climb out over a hundred feet of air. Not appetizing when facing a challenging series of moves. There were old bail slings here tied around a boulder telling of other failed attempts. But still, I should be able to do this. I called down to Jeff that I was confident we could clear the roof, and he inched his way up the route to join me.

Enlarge photo of Chris

I buried one arm in the crack, pulled up, then planted the next. I pulled out over the void. Another couple maneuvers and ... shit. I couldn't get my arms past the cam I'd placed to protect me from falling. Neither arm felt secure, slipping and shredding skin as I changed position. I was hanging out there now, gotta move the cam. But moving the cam leaves me unsecured. If I fall, it's going to be a 20 foot drop then slam into an ugly wall. The cam is moving, but not enough. But the new position does allow me to ease myself back onto the ledge, and catch my breath. Next few attempts solve it. Go up, move the cam out of the way, four arm pulls and you get your fingers on a slopey bulge to pull up onto the top. More bail slings here, top of the second pitch. Jeff climbed through the crack on his first attack, and joined me. We'd done it. Not pretty, but conquered. Now Jeff came alive.

"Keep me on belay" he said, then asked for my gear, explaining there was plenty more rock above. He led up through another 80 feet (more or less) to the highest ledge before the forest could gain hold on the flatter terrain, and tied off to a large pine tree.I joined him, and we celebrated our "summit" .

See larger view of Jillian

We rappelled to the ground, hiked back along the wall to find Short Man's Sorrow 5.5 open, and decided it was better to on climb something now than walk around looking for something to climb on later. I set up a top rope, and we took turns. Short, fun, face climb with horizontal cracks, good holds, the most popular (most climbed) route in the area. Steve joined us. The Sarasota  teams were assaulting The Nose 5.8* four pitch, and Sundial Crack 5.8* four pitch, well on their way to the top.

We headed back to camp at 5 p.m., wanting to go into town early enough for a visit to Looking Glass Outfitters, but we arrived at the store too late. We dined at the Chinese Restaurant, then returned to camp. Brendan Miller, Chase Crowson and Jillian Edwards came into camp that evening

We awoke to another nice morning, had a quick breakfast, then returned South Wall to set up some moderate climbs. We hung top ropes on Good Intentions 5.6, Short Man's Sorrow 5.5,  and eventually, Lichen or Not 5.6.   Jason Hale and Nancy Dohn arrived, and still later Patti Phillips and Chris Wulf.  Florida climbers were well represented. The UF group came in and rigged a couple ropes next to us, and shared a few rides on one of their ropes on a challenging section of wall. The Sarasota Group returned to the Nose area. Beautiful summer-like day again. Jillian did her first climb (there was no stopping her after that).

Chris, Jeff and I packed up around four, to return to camp and prepare for an adventure -  sleeping (at least spending the night) on the Parking Lot Ledge of the Nose route, hundreds of feet up on the wall. Steve taunted us with stories of waves of gear munching mice that would keep us awake all night. But a series of calamities followed (lost car keys) that delay us to the point I didn't feel we'd make the ledge before dark. It was a tough call for the three of us, as this was to be the highlight of our weekend. We agreed to at least sleep at the base of the rock tonight, then climb early in the morning. In the mean time we killed the rest of the afternoon getting showers in town, visiting Looking Glass Outfitters, then meeting everyone for Italian dinner. It was a good meal, a full belly would make the night a bit easier.

View larger image of Chris and Jeff

Jackie dropped the three of us at the trailhead to the Nose at 10 p.m., and we hiked up the narrow trail to the base of the rock wearing headlamps. Even on this moonless night you could feel the presence of 600 feet of granite shooting upward into the blackness. Rock fever took over.

" Are you sure there's no room at the first ledge?" the brothers asked. I knew there wasn't but it was a beautiful night.

"Let's find out, put me on belay" I said. The climbing was easy, and fun, a little more thrilling by headlamp, but not as impressive as day climbing when you can see how high you are. The ledge was even smaller than I remembered, and shaped like a pouring bowl, no place I was prepared to sleep. I didn't feel to confident about doing the next tricky pitch by headlamp, so I rappelled down the rope, leaving it up for the night. It would speed our ascent in the morning.

Enlarge photo of Jeff and Wayne

Jeff and Chris tested their hand made bivy sacks on the few patches of level ground nearby, to discover in the morning that they functioned quite well in warm clear weather. We were headed up the rock by 6 a.m. in ideal climbing conditions on the classic route. We made the second belay ledge by sunrise. Things were going quickly, too quickly. The fun would end too soon. We took a long break at the Parking Lot Ledge, inspecting where we'd hoped to sleep, taking pictures, enjoying the views. The last pitch brought us to the big pine tree at the atop the fourth pitch. It's a short walk to the trailhead at the top of the rock from here. More pictures, more views.

We rappelled to the base to find the rest of the gang with ropes on The Nose, Sundial. In before the crowds, they'd managed to get a few climbs in. The crowds were building, mid day was approaching, We had 8 hours drive ahead, and still had to break down camp - Jackie, Jeff and I packed up and left, leaving our good friend Jason to bring the gear I'd left behind.

See larger photo of Jason

It was a good weekend, good friends, great  climbing, including a few stories that can't be printed (saga of the keys, Mission Impossible showers). Thanks to Steve Longenecker for his time and company, and glad to meet the Sarasota Mountaineers. Looking Glass has so much to offer, we're sure to be back soon.

Looking Glass Outfitters
Wally Wallace
Falling Creek Camp
Sarasota Mountaineering Club
Steve Longenecker
Mountain Adventures!

Looking Glass Rock, NC climbing area page
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