Trip Reports - 10/18/00 - North Carolina Favorites Tour

Story and photos by Wayne Busch

Stuart Estes and I took a quick road trip through North Carolina in October, visiting some of my favorite routes at Linville Gorge, Stone Mountain, and Looking Glass Rock. I wanted to introduce him to some of the classic climbs, and show him the variety of mufti-pitch climbing available in my favorite state. We were blessed with a spell of clear, warm, mild weather, perfect conditions for climbing. The fall leaves were ablaze with color, and the skies were clear of clouds but heavy with the blue haze that gives the Southern Appalachian ranges their Smoky Mountain name. Even though the trip was cut short by an accident, we both left satisfied with our accomplishments.

We started in the middle of the mountainous western end of North Carolina at Linville Gorge. Stu and I had visited Linville Gorge in August, when we climbed The Prow 5.4, and several routes on nearby Table Rock. I'd pointed out two routes across the Amphitheater, The Mummy 5.4 and The Daddy 5.5. They are both classic lines, the most popular in the area. Both are located on the massive Mummy Buttress at the southern side of the canyon. The Mummy is the original ascent route in the Amphitheater. It's a three pitch climb, starting  up a crack that leads to a long ledge. It then climbs up and to the right, avoiding a roof 30 feet above the ledge, then up a vertical face to the top of the buttress. The Daddy is located further into the gorge, starting  lower than The Mummy. It is 5 pitches in length, though the third pitch is a traverse that gains little altitude. It starts by ascending two small blocky formations, then up a large crack, and finishes with mostly face climbing. It has great ledges, and a superb view of the expanse of Linville Gorge.

Enlarge photo of the Mummy Buttress

We slept in my van in the Table Rock parking lot, arising before dawn on Friday. We prepared a light breakfast of coffee and oatmeal by headlamp. As soon as we could see enough to turn off the lamps, we started the half hour hike along the scrubby  ridge line to the Amphitheater. A side trail leads down to the apex of the the canyon that opens to form the narrow bowl and sloping floor. It's a steep bushwhack down through the rugged terrain and tangles of rhododendrons, crossing to the far side of the chasm and the base of the Mummy Buttress.

Enlarge photo of Stu near top of The Mummy

It had been a few years since I'd climbed The Mummy, and I repeated a previous mistake by missing the start of the route. I descended past the route to a pine tree, and started up an inviting  face. After a few easy moves, it quickly becomes several grades harder, but traverses  towards the true route and connects about 60 feet up the face. It was easy going up the correct crack from here, then across a sloping face to the ledge. Rather than take the usual route from the ledge to the finish, I took the alternate 5.7 detour through the roof, it's fun.

From atop the Mummy Buttress, we crossed to the opposite site of the formation, and half scrambled - half rappelled back to the floor of the Amphitheater via the steep gully behind it. Spiraling down and around the corner of the pillar, passing The Mummy, we found two climbers at the base of The Daddy. A married couple, they'd just arrived to do the route. When they offered to let us go first, I shamelessly jumped on it. We kept a brisk pace and never saw the team following.

See larger view of Stu at the top of The Daddy

We returned to the parking lot in the heat of the day, hopped in the van, and departed for Stone Mountain to the north. We arrived at the park campground just before the gates closed for the evening, but there were no vacancies. It was suggested we try a campground about 1/2 hour away on the  Blue Ridge Parkway. As promised, we had no problem finding a campsite at Doughton Park. The gates to Stone Mountain State Park don't open until 08:00, so we slept in the next morning, waiting for first light before we got going.

See large view of Stone Mountain

We pulled into a deserted parking lot at the trailhead at 08:10, and hiked in solitude to the rock. We were the first at the mountain. We ascended to the Tree Ledge 200 feet above via  U Slot 5.7, and prepared for our three pitch run up the Great Arch 5.5. It was a fine climb, Stu's first introduction to friction climbing. From the top of the climb, we hiked upward to the lunar summit of the mountain, then returned and rappelled back to the Tree Ledge. Climbers were swarming up to the ledge now, and both arches had teams starting and waiting to start. No one was climbing the pure friction slab between the arches, allowing Stu and I to jump on Yardarm 5.8. It has a few holds along the way, but the three pitches become more and more runout as you approach the summit. When we rappelled back to the Tree Ledge, it was covered with climbers. We rappelled to the ground and drove back to the Blue Ridge Parkway.

The Parkway wound its way through the mountains from northern border of the state to near the southern border where we exited to access Looking Glass Rock. We parked the van at the trailhead to The Nose. It was Saturday night, and the woods along the forest road were full of people camping. A tent was already pitched before we got there, and through the night more and more would arrive. The perfect weather had brought everyone out to enjoy it.

View larger photo of Stu on No Alternative

I bolted upright at 05:00. Something I'd eaten was not agreeing with me. I fumbled for my clothes in the darkness, barely making it to the woods in time. My frantic activity woke Stu, and on my return, he too soon had to answer the call. Now, both awake, we decided to make a run for the climbs to insure we'd get our pick. Once the crowds awoke, it would mean waiting in line, having to follow the climbers ahead of us. We packed our gear, skipped breakfast, donned our headlamps and headed up the trail to The Nose. It's shadow loomed above as we set our gear down, then suddenly, the sickness hit me again. I ran down into the tangle of rhododendron, and in my haste lost my footing in the thick leaves and slid downward. It was a short fall, but when I came to rest, a sharp pain in my right hand told me all was not well. Protruding from the base of my thumb, a thick stick had been impaled in my hand. I removed it, and blood welled up to fill the cavity and run down both sides of my arm. I pressed a wad of toilet paper over the hole, and held it in place. The bleeding soon stopped, and we pondered our predicament.

My hand still worked, at least for now. If swelling set in, that could change. The bleeding had stopped. I secured the paper with a light wrapping of tape,  mounted my headlamp on my climbing helmet, and started up the first pitch in darkness. I figured we could escape the route at several points in case my condition deteriorated. By the time Stu joined me on the first small ledge, it was light enough to extinguish the lamps. We completed the second pitch up the ramp, and were just starting up the third when the first people arrived. They were soon out of sight as we climbed onto the expanse of the Parking Lot Ledge, then continued up the last pitch to the top.

See large photo of top of The Nose

As I expected, my hand was no longer working as well as before. I'd belayed the last two pitches left handed, and it was getting uncomfortable to grip the rope firmly. I informed my partner that my climbing trip was over, we'd have to leave. I felt I could tend to the wound best at home, and with that, we made our way south and back to Florida.

Despite my injury, it was a wonderful trip. I revisited some favorite climbs, and shared them with a friend. We had perfect weather. Early starts each day rewarded us with our pick of the best. My hand will heal, the damage does not seem to be to significant.

Enlarge photo of Wayne at top of Looking Glass Rock

submitted by Wayne

Linville Gorge Climbing Area page

Stone Mountain Climbing Area page

Looking Glass Rock Climbing Area page

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