Stone Mountain, North Carolina
January 16th - 17th, 1999

See larger photo

It was the first real break in the weather since the beginning of the year in North Carolina. Remnants of the last snow lay in melting heaps in the shopping center parking lot where the plows had stacked it. I drove into Elkin, Friday, at dinner time and spied the Hungry Dragon. Every night is buffet night, all you can eat. The selection of deep fried foods lured 'em down from the hills, I guess. The place was a zoo. I gorged. After dinner, I parked the van in a small clearing near the gates of Stone Mountain State Park, and spent the night in my sleeping bag.

The park gates close around sundown, and open at 8 am.  I met Steve Longenecker  outside the gate, and I brewed some coffee to ward off the morning chill. We were predicted to receive a breath of warm air and sunshine, but early this morning it was still in the 30's and I bundled against the chill. The park had just reopened the gates after a heavy snowfall had melted, remnants of which lined the edge of the road on our drive in to the parking area.  Gordon Swennes joined us at the parking lot. Gordon is from Atlanta, and this would be his first trip to the slick slabs of Stone. The access road was closed to cars, but the hike in helped warm our bodies and spirits for the opportunities that lay ahead.

A dam of snow rested along the base of the smooth granite dome. We surveyed the route possibilities to access the Tree Ledge 150 feet above us, the launching pad for the most popular routes at Stone Mountain. For many who visit, it's the most difficult climb of the day. I wanted to see some new turf, so Steve led us to the left. When we came to White Way Direct 5.9, I was enticed to grab the first lead. I traversed to the Tree Ledge just beneath the hardest section of the route, Gordon came up next. Only Steve pulled the sequency crux move.

As it was Gordon's first visit, he got to choose the routes. He selected to lead No Alternative 5.5, the second most popular of two obvious and classic routes. The most climbed feature at Stone Mountain is the Great Arch 5.5, a scimitar shaped arc of granite creasing the center of the great bald face. No Alternative forms a granite reflection of the great arch a couple hundred feet across a face of smooth steep slab. It's about half the size of the Great Arch, tapering to a rounded point at the top with a sturdy pine tree. There are plenty of places for gear, good holds when you need 'em, it's a nice first pitch. Being the last one up gave me the chance to hop on Closer To The Heart 5.9, a nice slab route nearby on the face between the two great features.

The second pitch is a lesson in Slab 101, an introduction to the true nature of Stone Mountain. Several hundred feet of smooth granite stretch out above you. There's a bolt at least 40 feet above you and not a hand hold visible in any direction for hundreds of feet. It's intimidating, but you venture forth, knowing the next bolt has to be up there somewhere. It's not. Nothing between you and the next set of ring anchors. The truly desperate will wedge a tiny cam under a rare flake, maybe slot a small nut, but it's not really necessary. You begin to feel like you've just swam out a half a mile from the beach -- you look around and see nothing but emptiness. You're just a speck of flotsam. Like a tiny fish. A bait fish! Steve led this pitch, I came up last, taking over the lead for the last totally unprotected pitch. Welcome to Stone Mountain. We rappelled down to the Tree Ledge, and grabbed lunch.

Enlarge view of Gordon

 The sky was clear, the sun shining and warm, melting the dam of snow that had formed on the Tree Ledge. It was a nice afternoon. We were fortunate enough to find a brief break in the swarm of teams that keep the Great Arch full of climbers. It seems there's always somebody ready to get on it. Gordon led the first and steepest pitch, now burdened by his day pack. Parts of the slab were wet from melting ice, you watched carefully where you put your feet. I followed, then continued on for the next two pitches to the top of the arch. We walked down from here, first crossing the pockmarked rolling lunar surface at the top of the rock, then into the trees and the path to the road. If the day had ended right there, it would have been a good day. When Gordon offered to treat us to dinner in Elkin, it was the icing on the cake. After dinner, Gorden started making his way back to Atlanta. Steve and I returned to my parking spot near the gate to spend the night in our cars.

It was frosty again the next morning though warmer than the day before. The forecast suggested it would be warmer today than yesterday, but such never came to pass. We hiked in to the base of the rock and surveyed the area for a worthy route. Ice and friction climbing don't mix, and some areas looked a little glassy. I chose to revisit Crystal Lizard 5.8. This route is a sandbag - it is easily as difficult as any 5.9 and gives me more trouble than some 5.10's. The crux is just above the first of two bolts. You can get at least one more piece of natural protection in on the way up, long runouts are normal at Stone Mountain. I went to the middle of the Tree Ledge, to one of the best of climbs, Rainy Day Women 5.10a. There are two bolts on the first pitch. One on the second. Steve suggested for the "full effect", I combine the first and second into one long pitch. No sweat with a 60 meter rope. Bullshit - I worked up a decent sweat by the time I reached the second anchor. If you enjoy the purest of slab climbing, you'll love this route. Steve came up, and we took a few minutes to appreciate the day. I wanted to finish the route, and took off on the third pitch clipping the single bolt on my way to the third set of anchor rings. From here, Steve made the transition up and across to the top of the Great Arch and the end of the climb. The weather remained overcast and hazy, and a little breeze picked up as we finished our lunch. The time passed as we sat talking and enjoying the view. I couldn't think of anything that could have improved upon what we'd already accomplished.

See larger view of Rainy Day Women

Steve and I hiked down the trail from the top of the mountain. I was amused by another "Hey, you're Steve Longenecker" encounter with a couple of young climbers on the trail. It happens a lot when you climb with this guy. He's something of a legend in the southeast, having done the original ascents of so many of the classic routes we've come to love. People still recognize him from a Climbing Magazine article a couple years ago. He was just mentioned in Rock and Ice last month (December '98, the last page). Climbing with him is exactly what it should be - a lot of fun.

The sky was hinting more harsh winter conditions were just over the horizon when we reached the parking lot. Our bubble of warm air and sunshine had burst, but we'd enjoyed the best of it. I got to see some snow, loved every minute I spent on the rock, and savored the company of old and new friends. My year is off to a great start!   

Wayne Busch     Steve Longenecker

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