Trip Reports - Pigeon Mountain, Georgia
September 11-12, 1999

This report is from a Black Dog Expeditions guided trip

Penned by the Big Dog (Wayne)

The fact that we had such a good time on our second visit to Pigeon Mountain, Georgia, is a testimony to the abundance of quality climbs available here. We have now investigated two of the most popular climbing spots, Rocktown and the Lost Wall. Stuck in the very northwest corner of Georgia near the town of Lafayette Pigeon Mountain is formed by a narrow spur which extends off 50 mile long Lookout Mountain. It takes about 6.5 hours to drive here from Gainesville, Florida, making it the closest (travel time) climbing area those living South.

See large view of Stu on Steggo

Pigeon Mountain is located in the Crockford-Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management Area, and is managed by the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. Access is via a gravel road that deteriorates according to the grade. The first section from the paved road in is smooth enough, but the road becomes rutted and bumpy as you start up the series of switchbacks that wind up the south face of the mountain. At the top of the fourth switchback a small parking area is located at the trailhead that leads to the Lost Wall. Continuing up the mountain, brings you to a fork at the top. Turn to the right leads you along the top of the ridge a mile or so. A sign points to the turn onto Rocky Road which leads to the Rocktown Trailhead. Camping is permitted here, as well as almost anywhere else in the wildlife Management area. Everywhere, except at Rocktown. This has preserved the climbing area and kept it clean, part of why it is so pleasant a place to visit. Lindsey Dubock, Stuart Estes, Jackie Busch and I found sites for our tents near the parking lot, and spent a comfortable night.

See larger view of pillar

We were joined Saturday morning by Jim Orofino at 08:00. It was a cool and pleasant morning, still and quiet despite others camping nearby. We finished breakfast, and packed up for the easy mile walk in to the Rocktown boulders. There is no guidebook to Rocktown, at least none that I'm familiar with. We've started giving names to areas just to help us find our way around. Entering Rocktown, we followed a trail veering to the left and returned to a spot we call the Amphitheater. Large rock outcroppings surround a sandy courtyard with good routes on several faces. We played here until lunch time, then went exploring for a new challenge. Hiking north, we came upon a precarious pinnacle, and paused to play with the boulder problem. Afterward, a short walk brought us to a three story block of Sandstone with gobs of jug holds, a crack or two, and a couple nice bouldering  roof problems. We finished our day at the west end of a slot between giant rock walls we call The Narrows near the Amphitheater. Here, a shady face rose 50 feet to a slopey finish, another fun route easily rigged and worth the time.

Enlarge photo of Lindsey

Pumped out from a days fun, we hiked back to camp, ate dinner, and crawled into our tents. Early to bed, early to rise; two hoot owls cavorting in the trees above our camp made for a rude awakening at 5:00 AM.  We tried to sleep through it, and postponed crawling out of the bags until almost 08:00. We broke camp, hopping in the cars, and headed down the road to the Lost Wall. We were lucky to be the first ones there this morning, so we had the choice of climbs. It being our first visit, I chose the easiest and quickest to set up, Steggo 5.6, and the adjacent wall. We had a good time, climbing variations of routes all over the face from two ropes. We packed up and headed out at 12:00, stopping in Lafayette for lunch. I pulled onto I-75 at 1:30, we were home in Gainesville by 7:30.

Show large view of Stu

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