Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Black Dog Expeditions, Inc.Trip Reports - 8/15/00 - Pigeon Mountain, Georgia - Rocktown, GA and Sunset Rock, TN

Composed by Wayne Busch

Photo by Wayne Busch - Josh Stevens on Dirty Dancing 5.6The second weekend in August hosted a Black Dog Expedition to Rocktown, Georgia and to Sunset Rock, Tennessee,. We had nine climbers meeting us at the Lookout Mountain Flight Park Campground in Trenton, Georgia, Friday night. Jim and Karin Waldrop, Jackie and I departed on Friday morning for our commute from Gainesville, Florida, to Chattanooga, Tennessee. On our way, we investigated a popular climbing spot, the Lost Wall. It's located on Pigeon Mountain, near Lafayette, Georgia. It's a very promising crag for some nice top-roping, with easy access. We agreed it would be a good place to bring our group on Sunday.

Enlarge photo of Josh

Photo by Wayne Busch - Jim Orafino passes the first crux on Ghost Dancer 5.8We ate at the Big River Brewery in downtown Chattanooga that evening, one of our favorite eateries. The downtown area hosts many fine restaurants and pubs, museums, attractions, and a superb aquarium. It was a sweltering 96 degrees at 6:30 PM. Wow!

See larger photo of Jim

The group trickled in through the evening, setting up tents to pass the night in the tall grass at the edge of the runway. Saturday morning, we drove to Sunset Rock. Our group split here, with one half climbing to the north, the other to the south. Jim and Karin went South, rigging Blonde Ambition 5.7 and Jugular Vein 5.7, two of the most classic southern routes. Jackie and I went north, rigging ropes on Beginner's Crack 5.4, and Ghost Dancer 5.8. The groups switched location 1 PM hiking the scenic trail along the cliffs. Near the end of the day,  I rigged a rope on Dirty Dancing 5.6, a fun route nearby.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Crockford - Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management areaThe weather could not have been nicer. The oppressive  heat of Friday night had passed with a quick front, and a cool, calm, clear day prevailed. It was a sweet whiff of fall, just a taste of that wonderful season to come. Most of us went into Chattanooga for dinner, visiting the convenient and popular Cancun Mexican Restaurant, then returned to the flight park for the evening.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Maureen Travers, Josh Stevens, and Maria FraserSunday morning, we packed up our tents, and snaked out of Trenton in a caravan. We followed the small country roads atop Lookout Mountain southwest through the Georgia countryside. It took about an hour to drive to the Crockford-Pigeon Mountain Wildlife management area near Lafayette, Georgia. A gravel road winds up the mountainside to the small parking area near the trailhead. We rounded the last switchback to find the road choked with cars. The Lost Wall had been found! It would be too busy to climb here today.

See large photo of group

Fortunately, Pigeon Mountain hosts two climbing areas - the Lost Wall and Rocktown. We continued up the road a couple miles, crossing the top of the broad  ridge, to the parking area at the remote Rocktown trailhead. Rock Town TrailheadFrom here, the level trail winds a mile through the woods, emerging in an area strewn with enormous boulders and pillars. The friendly rock is similar to that of Sandrock, Alabama, another 30 miles south. I slipped through a couple of narrow channels between boulders the size of buildings, into a tiny amphitheater surrounded by rock faces. It was a great spot to pass the morning. We had four top-ropes rigged within an hour, and everyone enjoyed the variety of challenges.

Photo by wayne Busch - One of several nice routes on this large blockWe packed up and hit the road at 1 PM, and were home by 9 PM. We'll be planning future trips to explore more of the wonderful opportunities at Rocktown.     

Enlarge photo of Christine

Sunset Rock, Tennessee climbing area page
Sunset Rock Gallery

Rocktown, Georgia climbing area page
Rocktown, Georgia Gallery
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