spo1
- Q: What is sport climbing?
A: Sport climbing describes climbing where the anchors (typically
bolts) are already placed in the rock prior to climbing it.
As the lead climber ascends, he attaches the rope to the rock
by use of these anchors to secure him against a long fall. Because
the anchors are already in the rock, the leader does not need
to bring additional equipment to build his own anchors.
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spo2 - Q:
Where do these anchors come from?
A: The anchors (bolts) are placed by the climber who "develops"
the route. He may place them as he climbs the route, or he may
rappel the route, stopping to place anchors on the way down.
Bolts are not cheap, bolting a route costs the climber both
money and effort.
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spo3 - Q:
How do bolts work?
A:
Specialized bolts have been devised for climbing applications.
The bolt fits into a hole drilled into the rock. This is typically
done with a hand drill and hammer and takes about half an hour.
The bolt is then hammered, threaded, glued, or mechanically
secured in the hole. A mechanically secured bolt is one where
tightening it causes the shaft to expand in the hole, the most
common means of securing. Glue or sealer is often added to prevent
water from getting into the bolt hole.
Bolts work in conjunction with a bolt hanger. The hanger (image
on right) is a small metal plate secured by the shaft of the
bolt. This metal plate has a hole in it for a carabiner to pass
through.
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spo4 - Q:
Are bolts safe?
A: The general rule is - never trust your life to a single
bolt. A modern, well designed climbing bolt properly placed
in good rock will hold any fall. However, many things can affect
how well a bolt will hold. Be suspect of bolts that look smaller
than usual (there are still a lot of old 1/4 inch buttonhead
bolts out there). Beware if a bolt is loose, the hanger spins,
or if there is obvious rust or corrosion.
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spo5 - Q:
What equipment do I need for sport climbing?
A:
Climbing shoes, harness, rope, belay device, guidebook
(link FAQ) , a few extra slings and carabiners, and
enough quickdraws (image on right) to attach one to each bolt.
A quickdraw is two carabiners connected by a short sling. One
carabiner is clipped to the bolt hanger. The other is clipped
around the climbing rope. A typical route may take from 6 -
10 quickdraws. If outside, you'll probably want a day pack for
water, snacks, and gear for the approach.
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spo6 - Q:
Are there bolts on all climbs?
A: Definitely not in the southeast. Bolts are usually placed
as a last resort when no natural protection is available. The
ethic in the southeast is that routes are climbed using traditional
methods with natural protection. If natural protection is available,
a bolt is inappropriate.
Despite the prevailing attitude, bolts are gradually encroaching
in certain appropriate areas. In high use areas bolts are sometimes
found as anchors at belay stations.
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spo7 - Q:
Are there advantages to having bolts on a climb?
A: Having bolts on a climb gives a climber confidence that
the anchors he uses are sound. This generally allows the climber
a margin of safety that allows him to push closer to the edge
of his climbing abilities with less worry of the consequences.
Most climbers climb one grade higher on sport routes.
Bolts also free the leader from the chore of having to establish
natural anchors. Fishing around to find the correct piece of
protection and fitting it into the crack just right takes time
and energy. It's much easier to come to a bolt, clip a carabiner
to it and move on.
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spo8 - Q:
Why aren't all climbs bolted?
A: Bolting climbs is controversial. Bolting has an irreversible
impact on the climbing environment. It is also considered inappropriate
to bolt a climb that doesn't need it. Additionally it is frowned
on to "retro bolt" an established route - adding bolts
to an established climb will only lead to them being removed.
Finally, bolts and permanent anchors are prohibited in some
places, particularly wilderness areas.
spo9 - Q:
Why aren't there more places to sport climb?
A: Sport climbing areas develop where the character of the
rock does not offer natural anchors. The rock in the southeast
is typically well featured and offers good natural protection
on most climbs.
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spo10 Q:
What about falling?
A: The traditional lead climber needs a belayer to manage the
rope between them so there is never any slack nor is it too
tight. The belayer anchors himself to something solid. As the
climber ascends, he looks for fissures, cracks, or other features
which he can use to attach the rope to the rock. If he falls,
the rope will be held to the rock by the anchors he has placed.
If the placements are good and the rock solid, all is well.
If not, the piece pulls from the rock and the climber keeps
falling until the next piece of protection takes up the slack.
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spo11 - Q:
Where are the best places to sport climb in the southeast?
A: Sport climbing opportunities are few in the southeast,
but the few we have are very good. Foster
Falls, Tennessee. Red River Gorge, Kentucky. New River Gorge,
West Virginia.
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