 Tennessee
- The Tennessee Wall
 Location
The Tennessee Wall, or T-Wall is located about 20 minutes northwest
of Chattanooga. The line of cliffs is found atop the north side
of the valley cut by the Tennessee River. They lie within the Prentice-Cooper
State Forest.
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 Description
The Tennessee Wall describes a band of sandstone cliffs carved
when the Tennessee River cut through the Cumberland Plateau. You
park near the river, then climb the side of the canyon to reach
the cliffs near the top. Most of the climbs are 100 feet or less
so it's convenient to rig top ropes.
The rock walls are irregular with sharply angled faces. These create
excellent cracks, corners, roofs up to 30 ft., aretes and superb
face climbing.
A level trail runs along the base of the cliffs. Routes can be
long, 100+ ft. is not uncommon. There are a few multi-pitch routes.
Almost all leading is traditional, bolts are few. You must lead
a route first to set top-rope anchors. There is no access to the
top of the cliffs from the trail at the base.
Enlarge photo of Crash
Position
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 Directions
From I-24, take 24 north to highway 127 North, then
to 27 west.
From Downtown, cross the river near the Aquarium,
turn left on Frazier Avenue and follow it as it leads to 27.
Once on 27, watch for signs pointing to Signal Mountain.
There is a Chinese Restaurant next to a Long John Silvers at the
left turn onto Suck Creek Road. It's just after the after the Subway
sandwich shop.
Follow it a few miles along the river until you come
to the small bridge over Suck Creek. Look for the tiny Tennessee
Grocer and Suck Creek Baptist Church just before the bridge. Take
the sharp left just after the bridge onto unmarked narrow River
Canyon Road (sign for Stanley Church - 2 miles, which winds along
the river through a run down neighborhood. It eventually enters
the Prentice-Cooper State Forest.
After six miles, watch for the "No Parking" signs
near the trailhead. Park just beyond at the gravel patch on the
river side of the road or further down the hill. Be careful not
to get stuck, the shoulders are steep and slippery - pull off a
little too far and you won't get out. On the other hand, if you
don't pull off the road far enough, you'll get towed.
Yahoo
Scalable map (link)![[ Yahoo! Maps ]](http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/us/mp/gr/mplogo.gif)
Shows Mullins Cove a.k.a. River Canyon Road
 Topo
map (TopoZone.com link)
Show large view of parking
area
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 Cliff
Access
There is (usually) a small sign at the trailhead. The cliffs are
uphill from here, about a 20 minute hike. The Trail forks about
2/3 of the way in. The left fork of the trail brings you to a waterfall
in the Paradise Falls area. Taking the right fork brings you to
a waterfall in the Steepopolis Section. You emerge on a level trail
that runs the base of the cliff line. A short walk further brings
you to the large boulder at the base of *Plastic Toys 5.7 and the
beginning of the Orange Blossom Section.
The cliff is divided into sections - from left to right, the main
sections are Paradise Falls, The Wastelands, Steepopolis, and the
Orange Blossom Section. Each of these sections may be further subdivided
by the guidebooks.
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  Guidebooks
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999.
Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA.
30075.
The Deep South Climbers Companion
by Rob Robinson and Chris Watford is currently out of print, unavailable.
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 Routes
Passages 5.8***, Jay Walker 5.7***, Puppy Ride 5.9*, Art 5.8**,
Sanscrit 5.8**, Golden Locks 5.8+***, Finger Locking Good 5.10b/c***,
Nutrasweet 5.7, Super Slide 5.10b***, In Pursuit of Excellence 5.9***,
True Colors 5.8*, Finagle 5.9**, Surf's Up 5.11 a/b, Crash Position
5.9**, Razor Worm 5.9***, Let's Face It! 5.7*, Exposed Aggregate
5.7*, Plastic Toys 5.7*, Open Sesame 5.8+***, Rape Conducive 5.8***,
Prerequisite For Excellence 5.8**
Show large image of
Finagle
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Land Manager:
The wildlife personnel on Prentice Cooper has changed. Rob
Klippel, the old Area Manager, has transferred to Watts Bar
WMA and Glen Rogers (the old Technician I) was promoted to
Technician II and transferred to Percy Priest WMA. A new
resident Wildlife Technician will be selected in the
upcoming weeks. The new Area Manager on Prentice Cooper WMA
is Clint Smith. He can be contacted through the normal
channels as the previous manager. Clint is a super nice
fellow and he's already starting to make some needed
improvements on the area.
Mike Bailey
Lead Wildlife Officer, Enforcement Area 32
Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency
Radio Dispatcher; calling from:
out of state: 931-4384-9571 Ext. 1001
in state 1-800-262-6704 Ext. 1001
Voice Mail: same numbers as above but Ext. 3209
Cell: 423-645-5820
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 Emergency
Information:
911, You are in Marion County.
Marion County Sheriff's Department : 423- 942-5667
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 Gear:
60m rope preferred, as a 50 ft. rope may come up short on some
popular routes. Bring two 50's to rap off the longer routes. Standard
rack will do, no extremes of gear. Rock takes protection well and
is of very good quality.
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 Facilities:
There are no facilities at T-Wall. Bring whatever supplies you'll
need including water. Please carry out a little extra trash. There
is primitive camping in the woods between the parking and the river,
but it gets pretty heavy abuse. I try to stay elsewhere.
The only "official camp grounds" on Prentice Cooper (other than
the back packing trails) are the Suck Creek Checking Station and
the Davis Pond Camp sites. Climbers are very welcome to camp in
those camp sites. Either a latrine or "port-a-potty" facility is
located at each, plus a hand pump for drinking water. Climbers may
camp along with the hunters at the Suck Creek Checking Station Camp
Site even during the managed hunts (provided there are spaces available)
and thus take advantage of climbing activities off the Wildlife
Management Area. These camp sites might provide for better security
of items left unattended in camp.
Recent updates from the Land Manager: Please remind the
climbing community to please pack out their garbage from
their camp site and please refrain from camping at the "T" wall
itself. Camp at either one of the two "official" camp sites
(Davis Pond or the Suck Creek Checking Station) on top of the
mountain or at the "unofficial" camp site on the opposite side
of the road from the "T" Wall entrance. We have been having a
slight problem in illegal camping and the leaving of trash
behind, or worse yet, burning unattended in a fire pit.
The state legislature had a drastic increase in court
costs recently and the "cheapest ticket" that we can now write
on Prentice Cooper is $224.50 and non-residents of Tennessee are
supposed to be arrested and taken down town for booking to post
a cash bond. Also, we're behind in rainfall
this year, so please watch your fires and make sure they are
positively out before you leave your camp site. Minimal parking is to be found on the roadside near the trailhead.
More is available a short way further along the road. Towing is
a possibility if your car is not completely off the pavement. Beware
also of getting stuck in the steep drop-offs along the road. Camp
near your car to guard it at night.
Chiggers are prevalent in warm moist weather. Do yourself a favor
and put on some bug juice before you spend a day at T-Wall.
See large view of Super
Slide
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 Seasons:
The cliffs face south making them the premier winter climbing location
in Tennessee, often the warmest area in the southeast. Temperatures
can be +20 degrees warmer up at the cliffs than it is in the parking
area. You'll probably want to avoid climbing here in the summer,
or go early when it's cooler.
There are hunts scheduled in the spring and fall during which the
area is closed to climbing. Climbers have been ticketed $146 for
climbing during hunt closures.
The spring Turkey season will be coming up on Prentice
Cooper WMA (T-Wall). As usual, the area will be closed to
all non-hunting activities during this period:
March 31 - April 05
April 08 - April 10
April 16 - April 18
April 21 - April 23
April 24 - April 26
We are still having problems with individuals camping at the
"T" Wall. It illegal to do this and we do enforce this
regulation. We have also been having some garbage bags
left along the parking area; this is a pack it in/pack it
out area. Please be responsible and take
your trash with you.
The minimum fine for a citation (ticket) on
Prentice Cooper WMA is now $221.50 and all non-resident
violators are usually placed under arrest and taken to jail
where the violator must either post bond or remain in jail
until the officer's next court date. Please help us keep
the area clean and camp where you are supposed to.
We wish everyone a safe year. Anytime we can be of service
, please feel free to contact me.
Best Regards,
Mike Bailey, Wildlife Officer Marion County
-
Also, the parking lot has been expanded considerably. Climbers
should remember to park in such a manner that they don't take up
more than one parking space (park as close as possible to an
adjacent vehicle and not take up "1 1/2" parking spaces). This
should help keep everyone's vehicle off of the road.
As usual, the camping area at the "T" Wall is an "unofficial
camp site" as a courtesy to the climbing community and is to be
used only when big game hunting is not in progress. There is to
be absolutely no camping at the "T" wall itself. Camping is to
be done on the same side of the road as the parking area.
During the big game hunts, climbers are always welcome to share
the camping area at the Prentice Cooper Hunter Checking Station
along with the hunters and utilize climbing resources on the
north side of Hwy 27 (Suck Creek Gorge) which is part of
Prentice Cooper State forest, but is not under the WMA rules and
regulations; also, feel free to camp at the checking station and
climb at other climbing sites away from Prentice Cooper any time
of the year.
Have a Great Day and feel free to contact me any time.
Mike Bailey
Wildlife Officer, Marion County
Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency
(C) 423 645-5828
See Access Notes below -
Large view of Golden
Locks
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Access Notes
Area closes periodically for hunting seasons. For dates of
closure, call the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency at
931-484-9571 or (in Tennessee only 1-800-262-6704).
Prentice Cooper State Forest and Wildlife Management Area will be
off limits during the above dates to all user groups except for
licensed hunters actually engaged in hunting activities. All forms
of non-hunting recreation will be prohibited on Prentice Cooper
during these dates. The Suck Creek Checking Station camp ground
will still be open to climbers wishing to camp there and make use
of other local climbing resources.
The 2500 acre tract of Prentice Cooper north of State Route 27
will still be open for hiking, backpacking, climbing, kayaking,
and other non-hunting uses as it is not part of the wildlife management
area system. Parking is available at numerous pull-offs along side
the road. PLEASE make sure that all valuables are locked out of
sight in your vehicle.
Any changes to area use, temporary closures, emergency closures,
along with all of the area rules & regulations, will always be posted
at the front gate and/or in the glass case on the front of the Suck
Creek Checking Station (on Game Preserve Rd., just off of State
Route 27 on top of Suck Creek Mountain). While the Rangers try to
post the entrance to the "T-Wall" as best as they can, they still
have problems with vandals destroying the signs.
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Miscellaneous
This climbing spot is located in a wilderness area 20 minutes from
a large city. It's on a major river in wildlife management area.
Road access along the river is convenient for recreation including
fishing, hunting, hiking, as well as climbing.
This easy access brings local traffic and urban problems into the
wilds. Thieves and vandals know about T-Wall, and are aware your
car will be easy prey while you are up on the cliffs. Car break-ins
occur. Prepare for it, don't leave valuables in your car.
The Marion County Sheriff's Office had a successful sting operation
at the T-Wall last spring when they placed several "dummy climber
vehicles" in the parking area and staked the area out. After several
hours, a local thug came along and took the bait and began to break
into the parked vehicles. At last account, he was still in jail.
They still recommend caution in leaving valuables in unattended
vehicles.
Expect and respect the local traffic. Roving tow trucks also make
sweeps down this road looking for cars illegally parked. Make sure
you are pulled well off the pavement of the road.
Show larger view of Surf's
Up
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Links
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Tennessee Wall Trip Reports
1/15/00 - First
climb of the year - A winter Day at T-Wall - Submitted by Wayne
Busch - Jason Hale and Wayne visit T-Wall.
3/25/00 -
Unfinished Business - We return to T-Wall - Submitted by Wayne
Busch - Wayne, Jason Hale, Jeff and Chris Braund (a.k.a. The Buttinksi
Bros.) spend a day at T-Wall.
7/17/99 - Itching
to climb! - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Saturday at the Tennessee
Wall, Sunday at Sunset Rock. An encounter with chiggers.
2/22/98 - T-Wall
Trip Report - Submitted by Jason Hale and Andy Mitchell - Andy
and Jason spend a weekend at T-Wall.
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