 Tennessee
- Sunset Rock
 Location
The cliffs around Sunset Rock are located in Chickamaugua
and Chattanooga National Military Park on the northwest side
of the city of Chattanooga, Tennessee atop 83 mile long Lookout
Mountain. Numerous popular attractions like Ruby
Falls, Rock City,
and Point
Park are located within the affluent neighborhoods overlooking
the Tennessee River and the city.
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 Description
Sunset Rock is an exposed outcropping of rock offering a strategic
view of the valley below. The prominence is faced with 80 foot cliffs,
and has a large flat top. The view from this point was influential
in a significant Civil War battle. The cliff area extends for more
than a mile along the top of Lookout Mountain. A trail descends
to the base of the cliffs, then to the north and south.
The climbing areas are located within Chickamaugua
and Chattanooga National Military Park . The first National
Military Park, it serves as both memorial to those who fought here
and a source of enlightenment of the history of our nation. Climbers
should be aware of the reverence of this place and be respectful
of other visitors.
Is one of the oldest and most established climbing areas in the
southeast, most likely due to its close proximity to the city of
Chattanooga. The cliffs are made of hard layered sandstones. They
run north from Sunset Rock about half a mile, and twice as far to
the south, with access trails along the base. Almost all climbs
are single pitch, most can be easily rigged with top-ropes. Very
few bolts exist, almost all routes are traditionally led or top-roped.
Sunset offers hundreds of excellent steep crack and face climbs,
with a smattering of challenging roofs.
Show large photo
fo Jackie
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 Directions
Follow the innumerable signs to Ruby
Falls on Lookout Mountain from I-24. Pass Ruby Falls on 148
and continue to the top of the mountain. Follow the road straight
across the mountains top until you come to the softball fields.
Bear to the right following West Brow Road, looking for a small
paved parking area on the left about 1/2 mile from the ball field.
There are 8 spaces available, 5 are unrestricted, 3 are one hour
parking - you will be ticketed/towed. If no parking here, continue
to Point Park and pay your $2 to enter. If there's still no parking,
go to the Access Fund parking lot.
Yahoo
Scalable map (link)
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Enlarge photo of Beth
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 Cliff
Access
There are three points of access for the trails that run along
the base of the cliffs. The determining factor is parking. Lookout
Mountain hosts several major major tourist attractions, the affluent
neighborhood is choked with traffic in the summer. Parking spaces
disappear fast. The park gates open at 8 AM. Be there when they
open if you hope to find a parking space. The Access Fund parking
lot at the base of the mountain almost always has room.
The primo spot was once the tiny parking lot at Sunset Rock. A
short trail leads to the top of the 90 foot cliffs. A trail leads
left from atop the rock, then descends via a long staircase onto
the trails at the base of the cliffs. Much of the climbing in this
immediate area is closed. (Climbing
Management Plan). There are 8 parking spaces here, 5
are unrestricted, 3 are one hour parking - you will be ticketed/towed
if you break any rule! Don't even consider parking in the rangers
space, alongside the road in the neighborhood, at the softball field,
or anywhere else. YOU WILL BE TICKET AND TOWED. I no longer park
at the Sunset Rock parking lot out of sensitivity to the purpose
of the park. The view from atop Sunset Rock played an important
role in the civil war. When you park for a long time in one of the
few parking places, you deny the experience to others of seeing
the historic view.
 The
correct thing to do is park at the base of the mountain and walk
up. Unfortunately, it is the least convenient. The Access Fund
Climbers Parking Lot is located at the base of the mountain,
below Sunset Rock. From atop the mountain, return down West Brow
Road, turning left at the ball fields. Pass Ruby Falls , then turn
left at the dangerous intersection at the hairpin turn (there is
a sign for the Sky Harbor Motel here). Follow the signs to Reflection
Riding Stables at the bottom of the mountain. Drive past nice houses,
then look for a gravel lot on the right side of the road, with parking
for about 20 cars. There is a map posted on the signboard at the
Sunset Rock parking lot. The easy trail up to Sunset Rock is across
the street from the climbers lot, and takes about 40 - 45 min.
to hike to the base of Sunset Rock.
The third access point is Point Park at the north end of the mountain.
Admission to the park is $2, be sure to keep your ticket, the rangers
do spot checks. Follow the path to the end of the point, descend
the stairs and walk south along the trail to reach the north terminus
of the climbing area. A sign indicates where climbing is permitted.
Don't try to exit from Point Park if you entered from another site
(i.e.. Sunset Rock Trail). If you pass through the gate, you better
have a ticket stub. There is parking in the visitor center parking
lot near the ranger station.
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 Climbing
History
(from the park Climbing
Management Plan) - A popular guidebook to rock climbing
within Chickamaugua and Chattanooga National Military Park refers
to the Sunset Rock area as the “birthplace" of sandstone climbing
in the South. This same volume traces some of the early history
of climbing in the park back to the 1940's. It further states that
during the 1960's several climbers began developing routes on the
cliffs of a limestone quarry on the northwest end of Lookout Mountain
known as the Eagles Nest. Climbing then moved to the cliffs on the
west side of the mountain around Sunset Rock. During the ‘70's that
area received considerable attention as a large number of routes
were developed. It was at Sunset Rock during the 1980's that local
climbers achieved what was probably the first climb in the south
rated at 5.12 (a very difficult climb). Use of motorized drills
and installing bolts on routes also proliferated during the 1980's.
In 1995 over 250 routes existed on the cliffs at and around Sunset
Rock.
Enlarge photo of Andy
leading S'More
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   Guidebooks
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999.
Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA.
30075.
Southern Rock A Climber's Guide
by Chris Hall. 1985, Published by East Woods Press Books,
Fast & McMillan Publishers Inc. 820 East Boulevard, Charlotte,
NC. Second Printing.
The Deep South Climbers Companion by Rob Robinson
and Chris Watford is currently out of print, unavailable.
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 Routes
**Afternoon Delight 5.7, ***Train Time 5.10a,***Walk In The Park
5.8, *Jugular Vein 5.7, ***Second Sun 5.9, ***Blonde Ambition 5.7,
*Airbrush 5.6, *More Fun With Dick And Jane 5.9, **Prisoner Of Zenda
5.11 A/B, ***Rattlesnake 5.9, ***Headwall 5.10 B/C, *S'More 5.8+,
***Flagstone 5.11A, ***Scream Wall 5.10 A/B, ***Rusty's Crack 5.10
A/B, **Thin Pockets 5.8, **Ghost Dancers 5.8, **Water In Motion
5.12A, ***Stan's Crack 5.8+ ***Wind Walker 5.9, ***R.J. Gold 5.9,
***Jefferson Airplane 5.10A, ***Bills Route 5.8, **Bubble Bath 5.9
Some of these climbs are now closed, check the Climbing
Management Plan.
Enlarge photo of Nick
on Copperhead
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Land Manager:
Chickamaugua and Chattanooga National Military Park
PO Box 2128
Fort Oglethorpe, GA 30742
fax 423-752-5215
phone Visitor Information 706-866-9241
CHCH_Superintendent@nps.gov
- Please include your name and postal mailing address with your
inquiry.
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 Emergency
Information:
911, You are in Hamilton County.
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 Gear:
A well rounded rack of nuts, hexes, cams will suffice for almost
all routes. 50m ropes will do for most climbs, but some of the nicer
ones will require a 60m rope to top-rope them. There are few permanent
anchors, you must use padding on the trees to protect the bark,
you can (will) be fined $50 / thrown out if you don't. Heavy canvas,
old towels, plastic tarp pieces will do. Bring a few long slings
for top-rope anchors. Wear helmets - there is a lot of small loose
rock near the top of climbs, and tourists like to toss things off
the top of Sunset Rock. In popular areas, you may find trees with
webbing anchors to rappel from, most are kept in good shape. Please
replace any suspect webbing, rings with camouflaged webbing (gray
is good). The new climbing management plan calls for the installation
of permanent fixed anchors at Sunset Rock for top-ropes, and the
closing of several areas for restoration. You should be aware of
areas where climbing is closed and avoid them.
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 Facilities:
The Park is located in an affluent neighborhood atop Lookout Mountain.
Several attractions share this location, including Rock
City, Ruby Falls , the
Inclined
Railway, Point
Park, leading to a lot of traffic through the neighborhood.
Be sensitive to the parking regulations. There is no primitive camping
available in the immediate vicinity. Raccoon Mt. Campground (I-24
Exit #174) is nearby, kinda cheesy though (kids/families may like
it). I think the best camping can be found at the Lookout Mountain
Flight Park hang gliding landing zone at the base of the mountain
near the town of Trenton, Georgia. $3/night, it has a bathroom with
hot showers, you can buy a pass for the pool. Pitch a tent near
the clubhouse / pool and party with the para - pilots, or drive
to the far side of the landing zone for some (relative) privacy
and quiet near a stream. To get there, drive south on Lookout Mountain,
past the religious college until you come to Burkhalter Gap Road
(about 20 minutes). Follow it down to into the valley, turning onto
Creek Road. Follow Creek Road to the Flight Park. The nearest exit
off I-24 is #174 (Raccoon Mt. ), with numerous motels including
the Country Inn, Ramada, Super 8, Best Western, Econo-Lodge, Hampton
Inn, Lookout Mountain Inn, and Baymont Inn. Try the small Bavarian
Inn (Sky Harbor) located at the dangerous intersection just before
Ruby Falls . The city of Chattanooga offers a wealth of entertainment,
hosts an excellent aquarium, museums, dining (don't miss the brewery
downtown, and the delicious Mudpies restaurant), and more wallet-sucking
fun than you can handle. "I pity the fool that don't eat at Mr.
T's Pizza", ", located at the base of the Inclined Railway. A rain
day here can be devastating to the finances.
Enlarge photo
of gate at Point Park
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Seasons:
The cliffs face northwest, keeping them cool and shady during the
sultry summer months. It is usually mid to late afternoon before
the sun comes over the ridge, and warms the shady trails. Spring
and fall climbing can be cold, be prepared for the breezes. Because
so little sun hits the cliffs, they may take longer to dry after
rainy spells. Some moist climbs trend to grow moss and lichen, meaning
less climbed routes are sometimes greasy or a little slippery. Winter
climbing at Sunset is usually avoided, and may be icy.
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 Access
Notes
Access has been a constant issue since I've been climbing at Sunset.
The area sees heavy traffic from climbers, hikers, sightseers, and
the locals. Be sensitive that many other people are using the trails
along the cliffs around Sunset Rock. Do not block the trails or
rig across them. The National Park Service has recently devised
a Climbing Management Plan. It is posted on the Internet at http://www.nps.gov/chch/cmp/finalcmp.htm.
Permits are required for groups over 10, and are easy to get via
fax. Charlie Spearman is the Chief Ranger, and Ranger Dennis Currey
is in charge of climbing issues. The park is regularly patrolled,
you must be out before the posted closing time or you will be fined.
Pad all trees. Stay on the trail and respect closed areas. There
has been a lot of restoration work done by climbers through the
efforts of the Southeast Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund
. There are frequent opportunities to contribute. Climb safe, clean
up, and maintain good relations.
Enlarge photo of Jackie
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Miscellaneous
About Chickamaugua and Chattanooga National Military Park
(from the park Climbing
Management Plan) The Battle of Chickamaugua and Battles
for Chattanooga, in 1863, were significant events in determining
the outcome of the American Civil War. The purpose of Chickamaugua
and Chattanooga National Military Park is to preserve the significant
resources of the Civil War campaigns and battles of Chickamaugua
and Chattanooga, and to educate the public about the events memorialized.
The park was established in 1890 “for the purpose of preserving
and suitably marking for historical and professional military study,
the fields of some of the most remarkable maneuvers and brilliant
fighting in the war of the rebellion”. (26 Statute, 33HR6 US4 -
August 19, 1890). This act of Congress was the first to authorize
the preservation of an American battlefield. In creating the first,
and largest, National Military Park, Congress laid the foundation
for the national historical park concept in the United States. From
this concept evolved future national battlefields, memorials, and
monuments. Thus, the legislation establishing Chickamaugua and Chattanooga
National Military Park provided the cornerstone for the preservation
of historic sites throughout the United States.
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Links
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Sunset Rock Trip Reports
4/24/99 - Sunset
Rock, Chattanooga, Tennessee - submitted by Wayne Busch - small
group weekend trip.
5/22/99 - Sunset
Rock, Tennessee May 22 - 23 - A Stormy Trip - submitted by Wayne
Busch - small group weekend trip.
7/17/99 - Itching
to climb! - submitted by Wayne Busch - Saturday at the Tennessee
Wall, Sunday at Sunset Rock. An encounter with chiggers.
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