Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo by Wayne Busch - A view of the the cliffs near the point from an overlook. Stone Door is near the point.Tennessee - Stone Door


Image  of state of tennessee with location of Stone Door indicated by a yellow star.Location

Stone Door is found in the Savage Gulf State Natural Area about 1 1/2 hours northwest of Chattanooga and 2 1/2 hours southeast of Nashville.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - A view from the top looking down into the narrow passage of the Stone Door which leads to the base of the cliffsDescription

Stone Door describes a geologic feature found in the South Cumberland State Recreation Area. This larger area is formed by the action of several big creeks and eons of time carving a five mile canyon through the Cumberland Plateau. Cliffs line portions of the rims of the canyons appearing sporadically but dramatically. The Stone Door is a narrow passageway leading from the cliff tops to their base, one of the few easy ways to gain entry to the gorge below in this area. Climbing is not permitted within the narrow slot of Stone Door, but is found on the surrounding cliffs.

Stone door offers just a handful of routes of varying difficulty. There are one or two routes almost anyone can climb. Most are short enough to be top roped.

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Directions

Approaching from the south on I -24 (from Chattanooga) - Get off at the Monteagle Exit and take 41 towards Tracey City. Turn left at the light to follow 56 / 108 to Altamont. From Altamont, 56 leads to Beersheba Springs. Drive through the town, watch for signs to Savage Gulf and Stone Door on right..

Approaching from the north on I- 24 (from Nashville) - Exit on 50 towards Pellham (east) . Continue on 50 (Elkhead Road) to Altamont. From Altamont, 56 leads to Beersheba Springs. Drive through the town, watch for signs to Savage Gulf and Stone Door on right.

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Beersheba Springs, TN

Logo - Topozone.comTopo map (TopoZone.com link)

 

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Jackie Busch on The Last Pin 5.7Cliff Access

On emerging from Stone Door, the low cliff face on the right is sometimes rigged for top roping. If you turn to the left (north), you can follow a trail that leads out along the side of the cliffs. This wall is known as the Vanderbuilt Wall and holds a handful of moderately rated routes. If you continue out on the trail, it will round the corner and run a series of small open caves and coves with ledges. Below these ledges, particularly in the corner, are faces that are commonly climbed. Climbing above these coves is to be avoided. The character of the rock above them changes. It's very loose and insecure. Climbing is prohibited much father to the north due to the heavy amount of tourist traffic along the cliffs and trails.

If you descend to the right as you leave Stone Door, you can walk quite a way along a cliff line. Surprising few routes present immediately. The rock is shaded and moist with few cracks or features. Here the distinction between the upper and lower band of rocks is most easily seen. A narrow ledge separates them in many areas. This upper area remains loose and blocky, unsuitable for climbing.

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Dixie Cragger's AtlasSouthern RockGuidebooks

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999. Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA. 30075.

Southern Rock A Climber's Guide by Chris Hall. 1985, Published by East Woods Press Books, Fast & McMillan Publishers Inc. 820 East Boulevard, Charlotte, NC. Second Printing.

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Routes

Campsite Dihedral 5.5, The last Pin 5.7, Horny Toad 5.6, Vanderbuilt Wall area.

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Land Manager:

South Cumberland State Recreation Area
Savage Gulf State Natural Area
Stone Door: 931-692-3887

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

Stone Door Ranger Station 931-692-3887. 911, you are in Grundy County.

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image - carabinerGear:

Standard rack, top roping gear.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Rig climbs below these cliffs. The rock above is loose.Facilities:

Savage Gulf State Natural Area is a very nice park with trails leading to scenic canyon views, waterfalls, and out into the wilderness. There is a campground here and several nearby. The trail leading to the Stone Door is paved most of the way with several overlooks.

Nearest store / gas is in Beersheba Springs. Big Don's has everything you need. If he doesn't have it, you don't need it. There is another market a little further up the road.

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Seasons:

Can get awfully hot in the summer time, fall is ideal.

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Access Notes

You must register at the ranger office at the trailhead to climb. Climbers must be out by dark. Primitive campsites are available, register with rangers.

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Miscellaneous

I came to know Stone Door and Savage Gulf through my friends Spencer and Diana. Spencer's family has a large historic summer house in nearby Beersheba Springs.

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Links

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