 North
Carolina - Stone Mountain
 Location
Stone Mountain State Park is located northwest of the town of
Elkin, North Carolina, near the Virginia border in the foothills
of the Blue Ridge Mountains. I-77 and the Blue Ridge Parkway are
close.
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 Description
Stone
Mountain State Park is tucked away in the mountains near the
northern border of North Carolina, only a few miles from Virginia.
Easily accessible from a major north-south Interstate highway, and
close to the Blue Ridge Parkway, it is popular with both tourists
and locals. They come to hike the verdant forest trails, fish the
clear stocked streams for trout, and of course, climb.
Stone Mountain hosts some of the cleanest friction climbing found
anywhere on its' 600 foot granite dome, and has been a popular east-coast
winter climbing spot for many years. Climbing at Stone Mountain
is enhanced in difficulty by the featureless nature of the acres
of white granite. Routes were established by traditional leading,
with bolts drilled on lead by hand. This places them near solid
stances and leaves crux moves unprotected. Opportunities for gear
placements may be rare if they are present at all. The most popular
routes may be polished and clean, but those less frequently climbed
are still exfoliating with patches of "dixie crystals" - tiny loose
flakes of rock that feel like sugar under your feet. Notorious for
a scarcity of bolts, the featureless faces test a leaders composure
as he ventures out on a smooth vertical sea of rolling white granite. 20
- 30 feet to the next bolt is well protected, 40 to 50 feet relatively
common. You will find runouts much longer. This is a serious place
to lead even the easiest of climbs. The more difficult ones are
an absolute thrill!
Enlarge photo of
Great Arch
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 Directions
Follow I-77 north as it leaves South Carolina, goes through Charlotte,
North Carolina, and continues north to the town of Elkin. If you
need food or supplies, take the first exit west onto US 21 through
the town. Plenty of places to eat. Motels. Fair sized town. Otherwise,
continue north to the next exit, #83. This will put you on the US
21 bypass and take you around town and towards the park. Once on
US 21, watch for a sign pointing you to Stone
Mountain State Park via NC road 1002 on your left. Follow 1002
for a few miles until you come to the prominent John P. Frank Parkway
on the right which leads you through the park gates. The
gates are locked at night around dark and don't open until 8 in
the morning. The Campground is gated and locked at night
as well. You will pass the road to the small park campground on
the right a couple miles beyond the visitor center.
![[ Yahoo! Maps ]](http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/us/mp/gr/mplogo.gif)
Yahoo Scalable Map of Stone Mountain State Park
 Topo
map (TopoZone.com link)
Hickory
Nut Gorge (map)
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Cliff Access
 Follow
the main road into the park. Pass the visitor center, then continue
on the paced road. You will cross a couple of one lane bridges as
you wind around the end of Stone Mountain. Turn left into a paved
parking lot, and find a space. It fills on holidays.
Hike up a graded road into the woods. Watch closely for the Stone
Mountain Trail sign along the road on the left on your way in. It
marks where the descent trail intersects the road, good to know
if you hike down from the top. It's not unusual to climb to the
top and hike the trail back down, especially on crowded days when
rappelling against the tide can be a hassle.
You will come to a small parking area with a trail on the right
leading to higher ground. A primitive homestead cabin and farm have
been reconstructed here. Hike out into the big open field until
you get your first good look at the rock. Follow the obvious wide
mown path leading toward the rock and into the woods. Fill out the
registration form and read the sign at the trailhead for most current
info. Paths lead to the base of the mountain in the area beneath
the Tree Ledge.
Park gates open at 8 a.m. Campground gate is opened at 8 a.m.
It takes about 10 minutes to drive to the parking area and another
15 - 20 minutes to walk in on the gravel road to the old cabin,
cross the field, and approach the base of the rock. No climbing
when it rains.
Enlarge view of Rainy Day
Women
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   Guidebooks
The Climbers Guide to
North Carolina by Thomas Kelley.
Southern Rock
by Chris Hall
Selected Climbs in North
Carolina - Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull.
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 Routes
The Great Arch 5.5, No Alternative 5.6, The Great White Way 5.9,
Mercury's' Lead 5.9-, Grand Funk Railroad 5.9, Rainy Day Women 5.10a,
Storm in a Teacup 5.10a, Yardarm 5.8, Block Route 5.8, Crystal Lizard
5.10.
Guide Steve Longenecker (sfl@ioa.com)
has shared his comments and advice on climbing at Stone Mountain
on the North
Carolina Routes page.
Enlarge Photo of popular
routes
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Land Manager:
Stone Mountain State Park
3042 Frank Parkway
Roaring Gap, NC 28668
Phone: 336 - 957-8185
FAX: 336 - 957-3985
http://www.ils.unc.edu/parkproject/visit/stmo/home.html
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 Emergency
Information:
911, you are in Wilkes County. Police Department - 336-835-9811
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 Gear:
Most routes suggest a light traditional rack. Many routes can be
done with just a few slings and quickdraws. You will find a small
assortment of cams useful, bring a few wired nuts. You can carry
more gear, but you'll have little opportunity to use it. I found
it helpful to use 60m ropes, as the pitches tend to be long.
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 Facilities:
The State Park campground has 30 sites. Gravel tent pads, water,
picnic table, trash cans, bathrooms with hot showers, firewood for
sale, gated 8 PM. - 8 AM. Max. 6 persons per site, 2 cars, 1 tent.
$9 per site. No alcohol. Gate hours change with the season. Ph.
336-957-8185. There are also backpacking sites if you care to hike
in and out, you need a permit and a map. The campground stays full
on weekends, you may have difficulties getting a spot if you arrive
late in the day without reservations. On holiday weekends, locals
will post signs in front yards advertising campsites.
I have been chased out of the convenient spot to camp not far from
the park gate in a small hidden field along the Parkway (Camp 4.
It is park land, and is now patrolled. You may get away with it,
but I'd rather not risk getting any bad blood going between the
climbers and the rangers. If you're going to be arriving after the
gates lock, or if you can't get a campsite within the park (common
on holidays), you can almost certainly find a spot to camp for the
night about 30 minutes away at Doughton
Park on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Another alternative is to contact
Stone
Mountain Cabin Rentals. The Stone Mountain Cafe burned down.
Too bad. You'll have to head into Elkin for gas or groceries.
Enlarge photo of Stu
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Seasons:
Stone Mountain faces south, which makes it's best season during
the cooler weather. It's ideal on sunny winter days, but also good
on summer mornings. Stone Mountain is closed to climbing when it
rains.
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 Access
Notes
Stone Mountain Rebolted
Stone Mountain was extensively rebolted in the winter of 1998.
The Carolina Climbers
Coalition, under the leadership of Dr. Aram Attarian, obtained
permission from the NC State Parks department to pull the old bolts
on most of the south face of Stone Mountain and replace them with
new bolts.
Double ring bolt anchors were placed at a few popular natural belay
stations which formerly required either scoring trees or abandoning
slings to rap from. These include the top of the No Alternative
flake and the top-out into the trees on No Alternative. Belay stations
now have two big ring bolts, bolts between belay stations are standard,
hangers and no rings. Fixed gear was replaced as needed. No routes
were changed, no new bolts were added.
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Miscellaneous
Stone Mountain is no place for the inexperienced leader or the
timid. Falls here will be long and serious. Nerve wracking runouts
are the norm. Tradition has it that these routes are established
and will be climbed as they are. The rangers are strict about enforcing
curfews and locking the gates, be sure to be out by the specified
times. The Park Service does not recommend starting new routes 3
hours prior to closing time. Stone Mountain is closed to climbing
when it rains.
I would like to let climbers who go to Stone Mountain State Park
know that there now is a small cabin for rent two miles from the
entrance to the park.
Minimum rental term is two nights at a cost of $250 total. The
cabin can accommodate 6.
The beds are one queen, two twin, one trundle with two single
mattresses. There is one bath.
It has a pocket kitchen, combined eating and sitting area, and a
large wraparound deck.
For rental information they can contact Roaring Gap Realty at
336-363-9999 and ask about Woodwind Hollow.
The realty's website is roaringgaprealty.com
Email is
roaringgaprealty@charter.net
Thanks,
June Piley, owner
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Links
Stone Mountain Trip Reports
5/26/01 - The
Edge of Nowhere: Climbing at Stone Mountain, NC May 26-28, 2001
- submitted by Charles Danforth - Charles and freinds make a first
visit
1/19/01 Son
of Sam & Great Arch in Stone Mtn, NC Submitted by sbegonia -
Sam and Mike do a first trad lead on The Great Arch.
2/27/99 - A
Quick Trip to Stone Mountain February 26 - 27th Submitted by
Wayne Busch - Chris and Jeff Braund, Jason Hale, and Wayne Busch
climb several routes including The Great White Way, Mercury's Lead,
and other classics.
1/16/99 Stone
Mountain, North Carolina January 16th - 17th Submitted by Wayne
Busch - Gordon Swennes, Steve Longenecker, and Wayne Busch climb
Rainy Day Women, White Way Direct, Closer to the Heart and other
classics.
10/12/97 Wayne's
Stone Mountain Trip Report October 11 - 12th. Submitted by Wayne
Busch - Steve Longenecker and Wayne Busch climb Grand Funk Railroad,
Storm in a Teacup, Crystal Lizard, and other classics.
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