Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo by Jackie Busch - Snake Den, North CarolinaNorth Carolina - Snake Den


Graphic - map of state of North Carolina with location of Mingo Falls indicated with a yellow star.Location

Snake Den is a small rock exposure located along a forest road nearest to the town of Barnardsville, NC. It is about 40 minutes north of Asheville.

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Description

Photo by  Jackie Busch - Sanke Den, North CarolinaEnlarge photo of cliff

Snake Den is the name of a rock outcropping rising about 150 feet or more along a Forest Road in the Pisgah National Forest. It is a relatively small area hosting a dozen or more traditional single pitch climbs ranging from 5.2 to 5.10. Most are in the mid ranges of 5.4 - 5.7 . Coupled with the ease of access - there is no hike in, one would suspect it would make an excellent beginners climbing area. However, the height of the cliffs precludes easy top roping. The routes must be traditionally led. Two ropes are need for the rappel to the ground. The cliffs sport a handful of bolts, some of dubious quality. The rock is well featured. Most routes can be adequately protected, though some experience with placing anchors will be appreciated. Nonetheless, it's proximity to Asheville and ease of access make it noteworthy.

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Directions

From Asheville, go north on I-26 (US 19/23) about 15 minutes to The Barnardsville Exit. Follow 129 to the small town of Barnardsville. Turn right after the Fire Department onto Dillingham Road. The road winds through a rural valley eventually becoming a single lane dirt road as it enters the National Forest. About four miles of gentle climbing will bring you to the cliff faces on your left. The road ends at a trailhead about 1/4 mile further.

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Photo by Jackie Busch - Wayne Busch leads Dark in Bad 5.7Cliff Access

See larger photo of Wayne

The cliffs are the border of the Forest Road on the north side. You can almost hit the rock with your car door when you open it. There is limited parking along the road in this narrow area, be sure to leave room for the traffic passing through to the trailhead further on. The road may be gated when it snows.

It should be possible to scramble up and down to the top of the rock, but there are a lot of loose stones to fall on anyone below.

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The Climbers Guide to North CarolinaGuidebooks

The Climbers Guide to North Carolina by Thomas Kelley.

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Routes

Dark in Bad 5.7, Scrambled Brains 5.7, Bookends 5.6 (sandbag!)

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image - logo- National Forest ServiceLand Manager:

Pisgah Ranger District
1001 Pisgah Highway
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
Web address http://www.fs.fed.us/pisgah
Office phone (828) 877-3265
FAX number (828) 884-7527
National Forests in North Carolina http://www.cs.unca.edu/nfsnc/

 

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

Barnardsville Rescue Squad
Barnardsville Volunteer Fire Department
http://www.wncleo.com/fire/buncombe/barnardsville.htm
PO Box 126
Barnardsville, NC 28709-0126

Emergency: 911 Business: (828) 626-2222

You are in Buncombe County

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image - carabinerGear:

Full rack. Though limited in the number of climbs, you'll find opportunities to place a large variety of gear from very small cams to some very large ones. Hexes, nuts, tricams will all see use. 2 foot slings are most useful. You'll need two full ropes.

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Photo by Jackie Busch - Wayne Busch on Scrambled Brains 5.7Facilities:

View larger image of Wayne

None. Primitive camping is permitted in the National Forest.

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Seasons:

Cliffs face south. Should be climbable all year. As with most Carolina cliffs, water will seep after wet periods.

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Photo by Jackie Busch - Bryan Hall on Bookends 5.6Access Notes

See larger image of Bryan

Be careful to allow for traffic along the road. A lot of people pass going to see the falls. The road may be gated near the entrance to the National Forest during snowy periods.

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Miscellaneous

The Douglass Falls trailhead is at the end of the Forest Road, 1/4 mile beyond the cliffs. It is a short hike to the falls.

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Links

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