North
Carolina - Snake Den
Location
Snake Den is a small rock exposure located along a forest road
nearest to the town of Barnardsville, NC. It is about 40 minutes
north of Asheville.
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Description
Enlarge
photo of cliff
Snake Den is the name of a rock outcropping rising about 150 feet
or more along a Forest Road in the Pisgah National Forest. It is
a relatively small area hosting a dozen or more traditional single
pitch climbs ranging from 5.2 to 5.10. Most are in the mid ranges
of 5.4 - 5.7 . Coupled with the ease of access - there is no hike
in, one would suspect it would make an excellent beginners climbing
area. However, the height of the cliffs precludes easy top roping.
The routes must be traditionally led. Two ropes are need for the
rappel to the ground. The cliffs sport a handful of bolts, some
of dubious quality. The rock is well featured. Most routes can be
adequately protected, though some experience with placing anchors
will be appreciated. Nonetheless, it's proximity to Asheville and
ease of access make it noteworthy.
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Directions
From Asheville, go north on I-26 (US 19/23) about 15 minutes to
The Barnardsville Exit. Follow 129 to the small town of Barnardsville.
Turn right after the Fire Department onto Dillingham Road. The road
winds through a rural valley eventually becoming a single lane dirt
road as it enters the National Forest. About four miles of gentle
climbing will bring you to the cliff faces on your left. The road
ends at a trailhead about 1/4 mile further.
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Cliff
Access
See larger photo of Wayne
The cliffs are the border of the Forest Road on the north side.
You can almost hit the rock with your car door when you open it.
There is limited parking along the road in this narrow area, be
sure to leave room for the traffic passing through to the trailhead
further on. The road may be gated when it snows.
It should be possible to scramble up and down to the top of the
rock, but there are a lot of loose stones to fall on anyone below.
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Guidebooks
The Climbers Guide to
North Carolina by Thomas Kelley.
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Routes
Dark in Bad 5.7, Scrambled Brains 5.7, Bookends 5.6 (sandbag!)
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Land
Manager:
Pisgah Ranger District
1001 Pisgah Highway
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
Web address http://www.fs.fed.us/pisgah
Office phone (828) 877-3265
FAX number (828) 884-7527
National Forests in North
Carolina http://www.cs.unca.edu/nfsnc/
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Emergency
Information:
Barnardsville Rescue Squad
Barnardsville Volunteer Fire Department
http://www.wncleo.com/fire/buncombe/barnardsville.htm
PO Box 126
Barnardsville, NC 28709-0126
Emergency: 911 Business: (828) 626-2222
You are in Buncombe County
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Gear:
Full rack. Though limited in the number of climbs, you'll find
opportunities to place a large variety of gear from very small cams
to some very large ones. Hexes, nuts, tricams will all see use.
2 foot slings are most useful. You'll need two full ropes.
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Facilities:
View larger image of
Wayne
None. Primitive camping is permitted in the National Forest.
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Seasons:
Cliffs face south. Should be climbable all year. As with most Carolina
cliffs, water will seep after wet periods.
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Access
Notes
See larger image
of Bryan
Be careful to allow for traffic along the road. A lot of people
pass going to see the falls. The road may be gated near the entrance
to the National Forest during snowy periods.
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Miscellaneous
The Douglass Falls trailhead is at the end of the Forest Road,
1/4 mile beyond the cliffs. It is a short hike to the falls.
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Links
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