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Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA
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North Carolina - Pilot Rock
Pilot Rock is located in the Pisgah National Forest a few miles from Looking Glass Rock. The nearest town is Brevard. As the rock is small compared to Looking Glass Rock, a little further to drive to, and fairly low angled with little challenge for experienced climbers, it sees very little traffic. This little used area is not for everyone, though it can probably be climbed by nearly everyone. It's a face of low angled granite with easy grades and exceptionally sticky rock ideal for introducing new climbers to friction climbing, practicing multi-pitch rope techniques, or taking a beginner top roping on something easy. It's also fairly quick to access via the trail with under 30 minutes walking. There are few holds on the rock face, but the angle is low enough a little careful footwork will take you almost anywhere on the face. The lack of handholds may be a little intimidating to the new climber and the lack of protection may be unnerving to a leader accustomed to at least a little protection, but the low angle and phenomenal adhesion of the rock gives one the confidence to move over it despite the risk. It averages about 5.4 in difficulty and is fairly consistent across the faces.
There is little protection down low. Plan on long runouts or even placing no protection to reach the first set of anchors. A few spots come available as you go higher though they are small and far between. Primarily used as a "teaching rock". Extensive history
unknown. At least one set of anchors was put in by Steve Longenecker.
Others are of unknown origin. From Brevard, follow 276 North for several miles. You will pass
the "Cradle of Forestry"
on your right a few minutes before you come to Forest Road 1206
which leads east from 276 into the woods. Follow FR 1206 exactly
4 miles. You will find the trail head for the Pilot Rock Trail on
the left side of the road. A few steps lead up to a trail marker
sign with Pilot Rock on it. Limited parking along the road, pull
off as best you can. Follow the Pilot Rock Trail up hill from FR 1206. AS you walk the
trail you may get views of the rock to your right if the leaves
are off the trees. After about 20 minutes of walking uphill the
trail will make two switchbacks. Shortly after you make the second
turn you will see another trail marker on the right which says "Pilot
Rock Base".  Land
Manager:
Pisgah Ranger District Emergency Telephone Numbers for Looking Glass Rock, NC Transylvania County OCD 828-844-3188 Pisgah District Ranger Office 828-877-3265 (Wade Carpenter) Closest phone - pay phone at the fish hatchery. You are in Transylvania County. Most anchors are set up for 60 meter ropes. Protection is primarily small and micro cams as well as small nuts, though you won't find much natural protection available. Other than bolts at the anchors, there is almost no fixed protection to be found. None. Primitive camping is available in the area. It is only about 25 minutes drive into Brevard for groceries, restaurants,
gear, showers, motels. You'll find the best selection of climbing
gear at Looking Glass
Outfitters at the first intersection coming out of the forest
- ph.704-884-5854, or 800-881-1458. Backcountry outfitters no longer
offers showers or climbing gear. For local guiding and instruction
contact Steve Longenecker e-mail sfl@ioa.com.
Other outfitters / suppliers in the area include Diamond
Brand Outdoors in Asheville and Arden at (828) 684-6262 and
Black Dome Outfitters in
Asheville at (800)-678-2367. The Pisgah Inn is located relatively nearby on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It has good food and is a place to stay nearby. To get to it, follow 276 north until you reach the Parkway and then go east towards Asheville. It's a few miles up the road, located in the area to the north of and above Pilot Rock. Faces South. Climbable year round. This climbing area offers little challenge to the accomplished climber. It is a good place for new climbers and of climbers of lesser experience. There are good views of the valley from the face. It faces south and should be warm in the winter. The Pilot Rock trail, a popular hiking and mountain biking trail comes near to the top of the rock. Once on the cliff face you can see the Blue Ridge Parkway to the north. |
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