 North
Carolina - Cold Mountain
 Location
Cold Mountain is located in the Shining
Rock Wilderness area of the Pisgah
National Forest. The nearest town of size is Waynesville to
the north. Brevard is closest sizable town to the south. It's not
far from Looking Glass Rock.
The mountain is situated within a triangle formed by State Roads
276,  215,
and the Blue Ridge Parkway.
The best viewing locations of the mountain are located along the
Blue Ridge Parkway, specifically the Mount Pisgah Overlook at milepost
408.6, and the Wagon Road Gap at milepost 411.9 (Cold Mountain Overlook).
The Wagon Road Gap Overlook is located just off State Road 276,
and is accessible even during periods when the Blue Ridge Parkway
is closed. Other good views will be found from the communities of
Cruso and Bethel in Haywood County accessed via SR 276.
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Description
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photo Prior to the release of Charles Frazier's historical fiction
novel of the same name, Cold Mountain was notable as one of North
Carolina's many 6000 ft. peaks (elevation 6030 feet). The release
of the movie based upon the novel has increased its notoriety considerably,
making it a destination for many who wish to connect with the history,
culture, and beauty of the area.
There is nothing of interest for technical climbers here. A few
boulders and small rock faces will be seen, but none in sufficient
quantity or quality to make this mountain known as a climbing destination.
However, the hiking and backpacking available on Cold Mountain and
the surrounding areas in the Shining Rock Wilderness are both excellent
and popular.
The profile of the mountain changes with the angle from which it
is viewed. The summit is a long ridge running east-west (See
topo). It appears broad and rounded from the north or south
side (see web cam
view). Viewed from an end, the mountain appears quite steep
and cone shaped.
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Directions
The mountain is located near the northern border of the wilderness
area, nestled between State Roads 276 and 215 and the Blue Ridge
Parkway. It can be approached on trails from any of these roads.
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Access
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The 18,483 acre Shining Rock Wilderness contains some of the most
rugged and beautiful high country in western North Carolina. Much
of it is located at elevations above 5000 feet, with several points
exceeding 6000 feet. It takes it's name from a large outcropping
of glasslike white quartz atop a ridge line which does indeed shine
brilliantly when sunlight reflects from it. The Cherokee believe
Shining Rock was the source of all life. The area is managed to
preserve its wild character. Trails are unmarked, signs are few,
and man-made effects are found only where necessary to protect the
habitat from the impact of human visitors. Group size is limited
to 10. Fires are prohibited. No bicycles or motorize vehicles are
permitted.
There are four primary trailheads for accessing
Cold Mountain. All of them lead you to Deep Gap on the south
flank of the mountain at an elevation of about 5200 feet. From Deep
Gap, the 1.4 mile long trail climbs north towards the summit, then
angles west to ascend the west side of the summit ridge. The ridge
narrows as you approach  the
top of the mountain. The most direct trail is from the Camp Daniel
Boone Trailhead via the Art Loeb Trail. The remaining
trails all converge near Shining Rock, then follow the Art
Loeb Trail north along Shining Rock Ledge, crossing 5869 ft. Stairs
Mountain and passing through a steep and rocky section known as
The Narrows on the way to Deep Gap.
All of these trails are considered steep and strenuous for the
average hiker.
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Camp Daniel Boone Trailhead to Summit via
the Art Loeb Trail (4.7 miles one way) - Take this trail
if you want to bag the summit in a day, it's the shortest route.
To get to this trailhead, follow SR 215 south (upstream) from it's
intersection with SR 276 in Bethel. Lake Logan Road also leads into
215 and is a little more direct. Turn left onto Little East Fork
Road and follow it to the terminus, driving through the large Camp
Daniel Boone Boy Scout Camp. Park along the roadside near the
Little East Fork of the Pigeon River. There is limited parking available
here.
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photo The trailhead is located across the road from the river.
There is a large signboard. Leaving the road, the trail starts off
quite steep with some moist areas, then starts switching back and
forth as you enter a rich hardwood forest. The trail winds around
a large ridge, briefly follows an old logging road, resumes, then
follows another short section of retired logging road a half mile
further. The climb is steady and unrelenting. A couple of small
streams are crossed as you climb towards Deep
Gap. A small spring is located 0.2 miles below Deep Gap. The
trail to the summit is located to your left (north) as you arrive
at the large campsite at Deep Gap. It is another 1.4 miles of steep
hiking to reach the top.
This trail gains almost 3000 feet during the steady climb to the
top. It takes you through a great diversity of habitats. You may
even encounter a change of seasons with green leaves down low and
fall or winter foliage at higher elevations. Be prepared for the
changing climate when you plan your hike. Because of the biodiversity,
spring and fall may offer a great variety of wildflowers.
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Big East Fork Trailhead - Shining Creek Trail
to Shining Rock, Art Loeb Trail to Summit (7.25 miles one way) -
This trail has a nice mix of it all. 2300 feet of elevation
gain in the first 3.5 miles. It approaches along a wild mountain
creek, passes close to Shining Rock,and can be done as a loop if
you wish to include the Old Butt Knob Trail.
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photo The Big East Fork Trailhead is located off SR 276 where
the road crosses the river before its steep and winding climb to
the top of the Wagon Road Ridge and its intersection with the Blue
Ridge Parkway near Wagon Road Gap. There is a large parking area
here, easily identified by the rock outcropping alongside the road.
Two trails leave from this parking area - the Shining Creek Trail
and Old Butt Knob Trail. Across the river is another small
parking area for the Big East Fork Trail. All of these trails
will lead you deep into the Shining Rock Wilderness, though the
Big East Fork Trail leads away from Cold Mountain.
The Shining Creek Trail and Old Butt Knob Trail share a common
start from the parking area, following along the Big East Fork of
the Pigeon River. The trial soon leaves the river on a fork to the
right (trail --> sign), and starts to climb switchbacks through
laurel and rhododendron forest.
The Old Butt Knob Trail (a.k.a.
Kick Your Old Butt Trail) forks off to the right at 0.7 miles
just as you round a sharp right turn in a stand of rhododendron.
It immediately begins a steep climb that only gets steeper the higher
you go towards the top of Chestnut Ridge. If gaining more than 1500
feet in 0.5 miles sounds like your kind of fun, then the Old Butt
Knob Trail will eventually lead you to Shining Rock (3.6 miles)
and you may continue on to Cold Mountain. There are good campsites
on Chestnut Ridge, Spanish Oak Gap, and Dog Loser Knob if you decide
to break up your hike.
Most people choose to follow the Shining
Creek Trail. After passing the Old Butt Knob Trail, the path
descends to follow Shining Creek. The rocky trail climbs alongside
Shining Creek for 2 miles passing a few excellent swimming holes
and several large campsites. It is often a good way above the creek
due to the steep terrain. At the three mile point, Dinah Branch
merges with Shining Creek. A large sliding rock marks this junction.
0.1 miles further, cross the North Prong of Shining Creek, follow
along the branch for another 0.1 miles, the leave the water on a
series of switchbacks that climb towards Shining Rock Gap. You will
again encounter the trickles and seeps of the headsprings as your
near the intersection with the Art Loeb Trail south of Shining Rock.
 Approaching
Shining Rock on the Art Loeb Trail, you will come to a grassy
clearing where several trails intersect. It's easy to get confused
here. Facing Shining Rock, the Art Loeb Trail exits this clearing
on the left passing below Shining Rock on an old road bed. Just
a bit further to the left is the Little East Fork Trail. The Ivestor
Gap Trail follows an old road bed curving off to the left just before
you enter the clearing. The trail narrows to begin climbing through
a rocky section leading to the top of Stairs Mountain (5869 ft).
Descending from Stairs Mountain brings you to a challenging section
of trail called The Narrows. Scramble over and around the rocky
outcroppings on the narrow ridge, then descend into Deep Gap. The
trail to the summit out of Deep Gap will be straight ahead. Enlarge
photo
 If
you choose to return by descending the Old Butt Knob Trail instead
of the Shining Rock Trail, return to the grassy clearing. Again,
face Shining Rock. Take the trail to the right of the Art Loeb Trail
and approach Shining Rock. Round the rock on the trail to the right,
looking for a trail closed sign. The trail nearby leading to the
east is the Old Butt Knob Trail. It will start its descent through
some rhododendrons, then cross the small grassy meadow of Beech
Spring Gap as it continues up onto Dog Loser Knob. Enlarge
map
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Black Balsam Parking Area (7 miles one way,
minimum) - 6000 foot peak baggers will want to use this trailhead
to include Black Balsam Knob, Tennent Mountain, Grassy Cove Top
and Shining Rock in their hike.
The Black Balsam Parking Area is a very popular place to access
many of the trailheads in the Shining Rock Wilderness from the Blue
Ridge Parkway. It is only accessible (by car) when the Parkway is
open. The parking area is located at the end of Forest Road 816.
Turn off the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 420.2, then follow the
paved (potholed) road about 1 mile to it's end.
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photo The most direct and easy means to reach the Art Loeb Trail
(and then continue on to Cold Mountain) from The Black Balsam Parking
Area is via the rocky roadbed of the Ivestor Gap Trail. It
is an unimproved continuation of the Forest Road 816 gated just
beyond the parking area. While easier, this route is not as scenic
as the road. It follows the contours below the higher ridges which
block the spectacular views to the south. It intersects the Art
Loeb Trail 1.8 miles from the parking area at a point where several
trails converge. There is a large wooden sign here, and the trails
leading out are marked (this is the boundary of the wilderness area).
The Art Loeb Trail continues along along Shining Rock Ridge, through
Flower Gap, rises onto Flower Knob, and on to the grassy
clearing mentioned above. Continue on the Art Loeb Trail to
Cold Mountain.
By adding just a little bit more distance,
hikers interested in tagging the 6000 ft. high points of North Carolina
can claim three sites in addition to 6030 foot Cold Mountain. From
the parking area, you can reach the top of 6214 foot Black Balsam
Knob via the steep 0.6 mile Black Balsam - Art Loeb Connector
Trail located just beyond the gate where the Ivestor Gap Trail
starts. It's a very steep scramble to reach the top. An
alternative is to go back down Forest Road 816 to the point where
the Art Loeb Trail Crosses, and start your hike there. (This is
the beginning of section 3 of the Art Loeb Trail). You will
crest Black Balsam Knob at 0.6 miles where a plaque commemorates
the Art Loeb Trail. Continuing on down through a saddle, you then
climb back up to the bald top of Tennent Mountain, 6060 feet at
1.6 miles. Follow the trail down to meet up with the Ivestor Gap
trail. Continue on the Art Loeb Trail as it wraps around Grassy
Cove Top. You can make an easy detour to scramble to the 6055 foot
bald top of Grassy Cove Top before continuing on towards Shining
Rock. Follow Shining Rock Ledge across Flower Gap and Flower Knob
until you reach the grassy clearing described
above. Continue on the Art Loeb Trail to reach Cold Mountain.
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photo To reach the summit of Shining Rock 6010 feet, proceed
from the grassy clearing towards Shining Rock.
The trail will run into a large section of the exposed white quartz.
Skirt it to the right, following the trails up and around. You will
pass the start of the Old Butt Knob Trail and the wooden Trail Closed
sign. Pass through a small gassy campsite following the trail upwards
towards the white rock in the pines. It's your choice as to which
of the two highest rocks are the true summit, trails lead to them
both. It's too close to tell which is higher, so you'd better go
to both of them just to be sure! Return to the grassy
clearing to get back on the Art Loeb Trail and continue on to
Cold Mountain.
Returning to the Black Balsam Parking area, High Point baggers
will probably not want to miss the opportunity to make the quick
1 mile trip to the top of Sam Knob (6055 feet). There are several
other 6000 foot peaks in this area, see
the High Point list here.
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Other Blue Ridge Parkway Access Points
Frequently mentioned has been the Art
Loeb Trail. This 30.1 mile National Scenic Trail is named
for the hiking enthusiast. One end of the trail is at the base of
Cold Mountain at Camp Daniel Boone. The other end of the trail is
located at the Davidson
River Campground on SR 276. It is usually described in four
sections, the first of which covers the route from the campground
to Glouscester Gap. The second section climbs to the Blue Ridge
Parkway, crossing it at milepost 421.2. and ending at Forest Road
816 (near the Black Balsam Parking Area). The
trail traverses some very rugged and beautiful sections of the Pisgah
National Forest, and is frequently overlapped by the Mountains-To-Sea-Trail.
The remainder of the trails which meander in the direction of Cold
Mountain converge in the area around Grassy Cove Top and follow
the Art Loeb Trail past Shining Rock. The trails mentioned in the
sections above provide the most direct access to the mountain. Using
any other trails increases the distance considerably, and would
be probably be best done as an overnight excursion.
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 Guidebooks
The
Best Hikes of Pisgah National Forest by C. Franklin Goldsmith,
III, Shannon E.G. Hamrick, and H. James Hamrick, Jr., $14.95. John
F. Blair Publisher, 1406 Plaza Drive, Winston-Salem, North Carolina
27103. ISBN 0-89587-190-4. www.blairpub.com.
Available at the Waynesville Book Company (kents@asapgroup.com)
- Waynesville, Diamond Brand
Outdoors - Asheville, Arden
Details - http://www.blairpub.com/outdoortitles/besthikespisgahnatlforest.htm
National
Geographic Trails Illustrated Pisgah Ranger District Topo Map,
$9.95. Available at the Waynesville Book Company (kents@asapgroup.com)
- Waynesville, Diamond Brand
Outdoors - Asheville, Arden
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 Land
Manager:
Pisgah Ranger District
1001 Pisgah Highway
Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
Web address http://www.fs.fed.us/pisgah
Office phone (828) 877-3265
FAX number (828) 884-7527
National Forests in North
Carolina http://www.cs.unca.edu/nfsnc/
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 Emergency
Information:
Haywood County Rescue Squad - 911
Pisgah District Ranger Office 828-877-3265
You are in Haywood County.
See also Miscellaneous
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 Gear:
Topo map, guidebook, compass should be taken. Bring clothing for
windy, wet conditions up high. A little extra food and a tarp may
help you make it through an unexpected bivy. Hiking sticks are a
good idea for rocky areas and stream crossings. Lightweight binoculars
will help you enjoy the views.
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 Facilities:
There are bathrooms at the parking lot at the Black Balsam Parking
area. There are no amenities at any of the other mentioned trailheads.
Within the wilderness area, there are no signs, no trail blazes,
little evidence of human improvements except where needed to protect
the wilds from the impact of people and reduce the erosion of the
trails. Cell phones will get good reception on the summit, but may
not work at all near the trailheads located down in the valleys
or along many of the trails.
Bears are common to this area. Visitors entering via the Daniel
Boone Camp will note bear hides drying on barns along the roadside.
Do not cook and sleep in the same location. Store food out of reach
of bears by hanging it between trees.
This wild area gets heavy human impact. Consider this when you
visit. Utilize existing campsites, there are plenty. Fires are not
permitted in the wilderness area. Pack out any trash you find along
the trails.
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Seasons:
Cold Mountain can be enjoyed at any time of the year, though due
to it's elevation the visitor must be aware of changing weather
conditions and be prepared for them. These high areas are exposed
to the extremes of weather even in the summer. The risk of hypothermia
is present year round. Thunderstorms build and move in quickly both
reducing visibility and exposing hikers to lightning. Large open
balds offer no shelter from the elements.
Winter conditions can be quite harsh with considerable snow and
ice accumulations and subfreezing temperatures. Even so, warm winter
days are a good time to avoid the crowds for the prepared hiker.
Snow will remain on the trails on the north slopes long after it
is gone from other areas. It gets compacted from foot travel and
freezes into ice in a short time. Hiking crampons will come in handy
on these icy spots. Hiking sticks are strongly recommended any time
of the year.
The Blue Ridge Parkway closes
during much of the late fall and winter. Check the web site to be
sure it is open before planning cold weather visits.
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Miscellaneous
Every year, the someone misjudges the weather and gets caught unprepared
for a night in the Shining Rock Wilderness (sometimes longer) or
gets lost. The trails are unmarked, and can be confusing, particularly
around Shining Rock (See
map). Abandoned logging roads, hunter trails, game trails, and
unnamed trails may be encountered. Clouds often obscure the high
areas reducing visibility and make it easy to become disoriented.
There can be significant differences in climate between the trailheads
and the high areas. Do not go into the area unprepared. Always bring
a topo map and compass. A guidebook is also helpful. Check the weather
before you enter. Bring extra clothing just in case. Be sure someone
knows to come looking for you if you do not return.
A few survival tips - the area is bounded by paved roads on all
sides. Eventually you will come to one if you are able to traverse
the rugged countryside. Don't cross a paved road or you will be
entering wilderness areas even more remote. All streams lead out
of the the Shining Rock Wilderness. If you are able to follow the
water down, you will come to a road. Cross country travel is very
difficult, as is following streams. Stay on the trails. If lost,
backtrack to find a trail. If you are still unsure, it is best to
set up camp and stay in one location until you are found.
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Links
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