Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo by Wayne Busch - View of Mount Yonah cliifsGeorgia - Mount Yonah


Image - State of Georgia with location of Mt. Yonah show by a yellow starLocation

Mount Yonah (officially referred to as Yonah Mountain) is located in the Chattahoochee National Forest between the towns of Cleveland and Helen in northeast Georgia.

The best roadside view of the bald brow atop the mountain will be found in the West Family Restaurant parking lot as you proceed towards Cleveland.

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Photo by wayne Busch - Cables strung across cliff faces by Army Rangers for trainingDescription

The climbing at 3166 ft. Mount Yonah occurs on the granite brows that sits just below the summit on the south west side of the mountain. Climbs roll gently to the top, there is a fair bit of friction climbing. There are also sections of juggy face as well as a few cracks. Some two pitch climbs ascend to the top 200 ft. above, but most routes are easily short enough to be top roped. 

The area was bolted years ago by the US Army Rangers who train on the mountain once each month. 200-300 soldiers, (3000 per year!) learn some of their mountaineering skills here. The Rangers strung cables across portions of the cliffs many years ago to make setting top rope anchors both convenient and safer. Old frayed and rusted cables were recently replaced with new cables and stainless bolts. In the process about 50 of the old bolts were eliminated. They are also trying to remove the spray paint used to mark routes in earlier times, and get the mountain back into shape for both the civilian climbers and the Army It is possible to use the cable in the Army Routes B section to ascend and rig climbs without leading with traditional gear.

The top of the mountain weeps water down many of the climbs for a day or two after a heavy rain. Army Section A stays wet for a while, Army Section B dries much faster. If it's been raining heavily, most of the popular routes will be wet.

Show larger view of cables

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Helen, Georgia is the closest town, 5 miles north on 75. Directions

From Atlanta, drive north on I-75 to I-85 north towards Greenville. Get on I-985 towards Gainesville to the US 129 exit. Continue through Cleveland to Georgia 17/75 north. Watch for the West Family Restaurant. Yonah Mountain Road is a short way beyond.

From Greenville, take I-85 south. Take the GA 17 exit towards Taccoa, Helen. Continue to US 123 south, until you pick up the Unicoi Turnpike. Take Georgia 17/75 south. Yonah Mountain Road is about 5 miles south of Helen.

From Helen, drive a few miles south of town on State Route 75. Look for Chambers Road, then follow the gravel road to the parking area.

[ Yahoo! Maps ] Map of Yonah Mountain Road

Logo - Topozone.comTopo map (TopoZone.com link)

Show larger view of Helen

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Photo by wayne Busch - Mt. Yonah is ideal for group top roping tripsCliff Access

Mt. Yonah is located in the public Chattahoochee National Forest. The parking area is accessed from Chambers Road. Follow the foot trail 1.5 miles to the campground site used by the Army. From the right side of the campground, a trail leads up and into the woods towards the cliffs. The trail gets tighter and more rugged, then reaches a point where you cross an exposed sloping granite slab to reach the main climbing areas. There is a heavy cable near the far side of the slab to protect those who may be uncomfortable on the last steep section before you reach the base of the cliffs. Other trails lead to lower ledges as well on the top of the mountain.

Enlarge photo of group top roping

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Southern RockOut of printDixie Cragger's Atlas

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999. Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA. 30075.

The Deep South Climbers Companion by Rob Robinson and Chris Watford is currently out of print, unavailable.

Southern Rock by Chris Hall

 

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Routes

The cliffs at Mt. Yonah have seen development by the Army's 5th Ranger Battalion who use the area for mountaineering training. There are several cables strung along the main portion of the cliffs, beneath which many easy and moderate routes can be climbed. There are two main sections, Army Routes A and Army Routes B where cables or bolts have been placed There is additional climbing lower down on other faces as well as some bouldering..

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image - logo- National Forest ServiceLand Manager:

Chattahoochee National Forest
Michael Gryson
District Ranger
U.S. Forest Service
200 Hwy. 197 North
PO Box 1960
Clarkesville, Georgia 30523
(706) 754-6221

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

911, you are in White County

White County Sheriff's Office
1210 Hulsey Rd.
Cleveland, GA 30528
706.865.5177

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image - carabinerGear:

50 meter ropes adequate. A light rack will do. Top ropes can be anchored to the cables easily enough, bring a few pieces of gear to back them up. Watch out for old and dangerous bolts.

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Photo by wayne Busch - Henry Gholz moves over easy ground at Mt. YonahFacilities:

It's pretty obvious access is a sensitive issue here. Don't try to sneak through the gate with another car and drive the access road, you'll get trapped between gates. You'll have to walk in from the main road. There are signs directing you to the various climbing areas. The 5th Army Ranger Battalion from Camp Merril train here occasionally, and have control over the cliffs when they are present.. Training most commonly occurs on Wednesdays and Thursdays. To avoid conflicts, call 706-864-3367 extension # 230. No water is available at the campground or on the mountain. There is now a cement latrine in the upper parking lot that everyone can use. Pack out all trash.

The Yonah Mountain Camping Resort is located a short walk from the private gated Yonah Mountain access road. The resort is divided into two parts. The front part is sometimes available to the public, depending on seasonal occupancy. The back part of the resort is for members only and is clearly separated from the rest of the campground. John McCann is the park manager. He charges $25 for tent use of an RV site wired for water and electricity. If offered a choice of sites, the rear of the campground has easier access to the trail but the showers / restrooms are farther away. Late fall and spring are the off times for the campground and availability is not generally a problem.  Keep a low profile and check rules on alcohol. There are fire rings, no firewood. Bring your own.

The West Family Restaurant is located just up the the hill on 75 from the access road, with a good view of Mount Yonah on the horizon a couple miles distant. It opens at 7 a.m., good spot for breakfast before hiking up. Gratitudes Cafe is located across the street from the Yonah Mountain Access Road. Reports are the food is good, though I haven't visited yet. The town of Helen is an "alpine village" tourist trap styled to resemble a Bavarian town. You can find plenty of motels listed on the Internet, just do a search for Helen, Georgia. It's a small town, congested with tourist traffic, stay downtown and you can walk to everything without parking hassles. If there is a good place to eat in Helen, I haven't found it. Though the town has a German theme, the cooking of that style is lacking. Try Paul's Steak house. For German food, try Edelweiss German Inn & Restaurant just over Mount Yonah from West Family on GA Hwy 384 with a view of the mountain.

Show larger view of Henry climbing

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Seasons:

The cliffs face south making for excellent winter climbing. In rare seasons, climbable ice forms. Summers are unbearably hot.

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Photo by Henry Gholz - Wayne Busch explores a section of the main face.Access Notes

A public parking lot has been added. It is accessed off Chambers Road. Follow the gravel road to the parking area, then hike 1.5 miles on a foot trail to reach the camp near the top of the mountain.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Camp area near top of mountain used by Army. Miscellaneous

 

Yonah means "bear" in Cherokee.

Show large view of Army camp area

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Links

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Mount Yonah Trip Reports

4/12/99 - A Pleasant Day in Georgia - submitted by Wayne Busch - Wayne Busch, Barry Wagoner, and Jackie Busch spend a day at Mt. Yonah.

3/7/98 - March 7th and 8th Mt. Yonah and Unicoi State Park Trip Report - Submitted by Mary Weber - The ladies get rained out and go biking instead.

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