Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo by Mike Tennant - Tony on Booze and Broads 5.9Georgia - Lost Wall


Image - state of Georgia with yellow star showing location of Pigeon MountainLocation

The Lost Wall is located on Pigeon Mountain in the extreme corner of Northwest Georgia, about 1/2 way between Atlanta, GA, and Chattanooga, TN. It is nearest to the town of Lafayette, Georgia. Pigeon Mountain is actually a spur jutting northeast off 80 mile long Lookout Mountain. Lost Wall lies between two popular Lookout Mountain climbing sites, Sunset Rock in Tennessee, and Sandrock, in Alabama, Rocktown is located on top of the mountain a bit further up the road.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Stuart estes on Steggo 5.6 at Lost Wall.Description

The Lost Wall is an exposed band of rock along the eastern side of the mountain a little more than 1/2 way to the top. The cliffs average about 60 feet in height here with the climbing resembling that found around Chattanooga, Tennessee.

Show larger view of Stu on Steggo

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Directions

(from points to the south) Take I-75 until north of Atlanta.

About 1/2 way between Atlanta and Chattanooga watch for I-75 exit for Resacca, Lafayette, (HWY 136) - Turn L onto HWY 136 & cross over I-75.

Go 6.5 miles to T intersection turn Right to stay on HWY 136.

Go 14.3 miles (through Villanow & over mountain) to T intersection & turn Left to stay on HWY 136.

Go 1.3 miles and turn Right to stay on HWY 136. (be careful this intersection will sneak up on you).

Go 3.9 miles to HWY 27/136 (traffic light) - continue straight ahead to HWY 27 in the town of Lafayette, Georgia.

Turn Left onto HWY 27/193 and go a short distance. HWY 193 north will turn Right.

Photo by Wayne Busch - Crockford-Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management Area sign at turn into the climbing area off Chamberlain Road.Go 2.7 miles on HWY 193 to Chamberlain Road and turn Left onto Chamberlain (Fina station on Right)

Go 3.3 miles on Chamberlain Rd to Crockford-Pigeon Wildlife Area sign on Right - turn Right onto gravel road. Take this road approximately. 1.8 miles (as the road steepens it gets rougher, and goes up the Mt. via a series of switchbacks) Lost Wall Parking is just past the fourth switchback on the left.

If coming from the north (i.e. Trenton, GA or Chattanooga, TN), You can come across lookout mountain on 136. When you intersect 193, take it to the right. You will come to the Fina station at the right turn onto Chamberlain Rd after 10 minutes or so. This eliminates driving into and out of Lafayette, GA.

[ Yahoo! Maps ] Yahoo map of Chamberlain Road

Logo - Topozone.comTopo map (TopoZone.com link)

Show larger view of sign at turn

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Stuart estes starts up Kid's Corner 5.6Cliff Access

One reason for Lost Wall's popularity is the close access to the road. You can hike in on an easy trail and be at the first climbable section of rock in a couple of minutes. The vertical slab first found here hosts good climbing at low-moderate grades, and is easily rigged with top-ropes by scrambling up the left side of the rock. Continuing along the cliff line will reveal many moderate to difficult routes averaging 40 - 50 feet in height. This ease of access makes it a prime location for groups looking for a quick setup on Sunday mornings. Parking at the trailhead is limited to about 4 cars, but the rest just pull off along the road.

There is more climbing available down the cliff line, though some of it must be trad led first to rig top-ropes as access to the top of the rock is limited. A second obscure access point from further up the road leads into some taller and more difficult climbs.

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GuidebooksOut of printDixie Cragger's Atlas

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999. Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA. 30075.

The Deep South Climbers Companion by Rob Robinson and Chris Watford is currently out of print, unavailable.

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Photo by Mike Tennant - Steve on Spider Fighter 5.11bRoutes

Steggo 5.6, Kid's Corner 5.6, Guzzler 5.8, Maybe Not 5.8, Somalian Hunger 5.10b , Clodhopper 5.9, Roger's Corner 5.9, Black Pig 5.9, Refrigerator Crack 5.9, Next to Nothing 5.8, Didn't Make it to Sunset 5.10, Casual Pay 5.10, Linda's Corner 5.7, Booze & Broads 5.9

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image - logo- National Forest ServiceLand Manager:

Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Wildlife Resources Division

2592 Floyd Springs Road,
Armuchee, GA 30105; (706)295-6041.
Crockford-Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management Area
Armuchee Ranger District
806 E. Villanow St.
PO Box 465
Lafayette, GA, 30728
Phone: 706-638-1085

Armuchee & Cohutta Ranger Districts Ranger:
Debbie Whitman
Telephone: 706-695-6737
3941 Hwy. 76
Chatsworth, GA 30705

Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Wildlife Resources Division - Headquarters
2070 U.S. 278,
S.E., Social Circle, GA 30279;
(404)918-6416 or (706)557-3035.
General Information: (770) 918-6400

Chattahoochee and Oconee National Forests

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

911, you are in Walker County

Walker County Emergency Service: 706-375-7810

Rangers here are trained in vertical rescue and cave techniques.

Georgia Department of Natural Resources: 706-295-6041

Nearest medical treatment: Lafayette

How to get to Lafayette: From the Trailhead, drive back to Rocky Lane, turn Right. Follow Rocky Lane across the top of the mountain until it intersects Rocktown Road. Turn Left to head down the mountain to exit the Crockford-Pigeon Mountain area. Follow to Chamberlain Road. Turn left onto Chamberlain, follow it to Main Road - Turn Right to go to Lafayette. Follow signs (H) to hospital.

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image - carabinerGear:

Standard top-rope gear, 50 m rope is plenty long, routes are short. No nuts, cams, chocks needed to rig top-ropes at Rocktown. With long slings or a piece of static line, you can rig almost any top-rope. Leave the gear home unless you're looking to lead routes at the Lost Wall. There are no bolts here, routes are too short to bother. If you're bouldering, a good crash pad is advised. There are some excellent overhung routes.

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Facilities:

None. There is primitive camping. My cell phone does not get service here. Nearest town / food / supplies is Lafayette

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Seasons:

Cliffs face east, getting morning and early afternoon sun when the leaves are off the trees. Year round climbing, though summers are very hot.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Ranger station on road onto Pigeon MountainAccess Notes

ACCESS ALERT: ATTENTION CAVERS Pigeon Mountain needs your help! Many of you know that Pigeon Mountain, Georgia, contains the world famous Ellisons Cave with its 586 foot freefall pit. Any one who has driven to the Blue Hole parking area has noticed an unattractive quarry gouging a hole in the side of Pigeon Mountain. Most of Pigeon Mountain is protected as a Heritage Preserve and owned by the State of Georgia. All of the mountain side around the existing quarry is state owned land. In a recent development, a new company and purchased the quarry operation and the mineral rights to over 800 acres of State owned land. The company wants to open pit quarry limestone on the 800 acres for use as aggregate. This new operation will destroy a vast karst area with numerous caves and karst features some of which are highly significant. By the time the entire 800 acres is consumed, there is a potential that the Ellisons Cave System will be impacted. At this time there are many volunteers helping to stop the quarry expansion but we need help from outside of Georgia. It is important that Governor Roy E. Barnes is aware that people world wide visit Pigeon Mountain and enjoy all its natural resources. We need letters written from individuals to the Governor stating opposition to the quarry expansion. Letters need not be long or detailed. This is our best chance for saving this beautiful mountain and its caves from further destruction. Address your letters to: The Honorable Roy E. Barnes Governor Room 203 State Capital Atlanta, Ga 30334 Thanks, Alan Cressler NSS 24392 Forwarded by: Kathryn E. Dodgen Managing Director The Challenge Rock Climbing School 1085 Capital Club Circle Atlanta, GA 30319 404-237-4021 800-831-4317 www.TheChallengeRock.com Fax: 404-261-5264 Make a date with a trail day in 2001.

See larger view of Ranger Station

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Miscellaneous

Crockford-Pigeon Mountain Wildlife Management Area Seasonal Hunting Dates

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Links

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Lost Wall Trip Reports

6/9/00 - Discovering the Lost Wall - Submitted by Mike Tennant - Mike and friends visit the Lost Wall

11/7/99 - Pigeon Mountain, Georgia November 6-7 - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Wayne leads a group trip to Rocktown and Lost Wall

9/12/99 - Pigeon Mountain Georgia: Rocktown and Lost Wall - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Wayne leads a group trip to Rocktown and Lost Wall

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