 Arkansas
- Sam's Throne and surrounding areas
 Location
Sam's Throne is located in the Ozark
National Forest about 2.5 hours (130 miles) north of Little
Rock and roughly the same time and distance south of Springfield,
Missouri. The nearest town is Mt. Judea.
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 Description
A surprising amount of climbing is found in the Ozark mountains
of Arkansas. The flat topped mountains are capped by high quality
atoka sandstone that is described as similar in quality to that
found in the Red River and New River Gorges to the east. This highly
featured solid rock is found in exposed cliff lines along the tops
of the mesas cut by numerous streams and rivers.
See larger view
of cliff line
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Sam's Throne
 Sam's
Throne is the oldest of several climbing areas found on along the
broad flat mountain tops of the Ozark area. The Atoka sandstone
caprock that forms the cliffs at Sam's Throne encircles about a
three mile area. Major cliffs include East and West Main Bluff,
The Outback with its big overhanging cracks, shady Northern Exposure,
and the 90 foot walls of Hero Maker and Valley of the Blind and
Deliverance. There are several other areas nearby including the
sport climbing area at Cave Creek, Horseshoe
Canyon Guest Ranch, Rickett Mountain, Kent Mountain, and Cherokee
Crags.
The climbs range from short bouldering to 60' - 75' pitches, most
ideal for top roping. The Atoka sandstone is laced with solution
pockets and knobs as well as with numerous crack systems. Because
of the highly featured rock which takes protective gear well, the
first bolt did not appear at Sam's Throne until 1987. A strong traditional
climbing ethic persists.
These large number of features makes Sam's Throne and the surrounding
areas an excellent place for beginners. Most routes are in the 5.7
to 5.10 range and are easily top roped.
View larger photo
of Albino Rhino
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Cave Creek Canyon
Cave Creek, a few miles from Sam's Throne, is one
of the premier sport climbing destinations in Arkansas. "Discovered
" in the fall of 1989 by two southern Missouri climbers, Cave
Creek was quickly developed into a sport climbing area. It is not
exclusively a sport area though, as the natural protection is good
enough to offer about as many traditional lines as sport routes.
There is also some excellent bouldering found here.
Cave Creek is located about 3 1/2 miles south of
Sam's Throne on Highway 123. Follow an old logging road on the east
side of the highway down about 1/4 mile through a huge mud puddle
to a clearing. The trails are to the right (South) of the road.
Rocklist
data
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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a 350 acre dude ranch
just south of the scenic Buffalo
National River. It caters primarily to vacationing families,
with horseback rides, a swimming pool, cabins and a lodge. It also
caters to climbers who visit to climb the many cliffs that line
the canyon. The ranch staff have put up hundreds of bolt-equipped
routes and traditional climbs. The excellent rock has a diversity
of features and loads of easy routes. Bring a rope and a light rack.
There is a $5 climbing fee per day. Camping costs $5 per day. The
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has climbing guides for hire for $50 per
day plus $25 per person (year-round). The Ranch has hosted the region's
annual Climber's Rendezvous with more than 150 climbers attending.
(870-446-2555)
Visit Horseshoe
Canyon Guest Ranch (climbhcr.com) for more information. Free
topos are available at the Rock and Ice web site at rockandice.com
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 Directions
From from Mt. Judea, wind south on highway 123 up the steep and
sharp switchbacks about 3.5 miles. There are no signs, local guidance
is highly recommended. Look for a rock barn marking the left turn
into the large open parking area. Turn left once you have found
the entrance. Odometer readings: to Mt. Perversion 2.5 miles, Northern
Exposure 4.0, Sam's Throne, Main Bluff, East and West Main Bluff
(left), Outback and main free camping areas at 4.3 (right), Hero
Maker 4.8, Lookout Point 5.4, Valley of the Blind 5.6, Deliverance
6.0, and Cave Creek 7.5 miles.
From Latrine, 10 miles north on highway 123, about
1 mile past overlook. Park on the left. Hike 1/2 mile to main cliff.
View larger photo
of Karen
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 Cliff
Access
To access the Sam's Throne, East and West main
bluffs, turn left once you have found the entrance. You'll notice
a lot of campsites near the bluff line. From the Sam's Throne camping
area, head down the south road until it ends at a campsite. The
road turns into a trail. At the end of the trail you'll be standing
on a cliff looking right at the throne formation. Access to the
base of the cliffs is found a couple hundred yards to the left along
the cliffline. Scramble down through a boulder fall area.
The Outback can be accessed by going right. Look
for one of several descent trails on the west main bluff side.
View
large image of Gus
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 Guidebooks
Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas by Clay Frisbie.
Publisher: Chockstone Pr; 1 edition (October 1999) ASIN: 1575400472
. Currently out of Print, a few copies were still available on Amazon.com
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Routes
Sam's Throne: Poison Ivy (5.7) , White Trash (5.9), Patio Direct
(5.9), Instant Karma (5.10+), Dry County (5.10+) Blind In Both Eyes
(5.10+), Edge of Flight (5.10), Crack Me Up (5.8), Albino Rhino
(5.7), Boston Rag (5.7-), Fun Alley (5.7)
The Outback: Silver Fish (5.9), Lonely Lizard (5.9+),
Crater Face (5.10+) , All Star Wrestling (5.12), Sonic Love Jugs
(5.11)
Northern Exposure: Bones and Steel (5.8), Euthanasia(5.13),
Fatal Attraction (5.11), User Friendly (5.9)
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 Land
Manager:
Ozark-St. Francis National Forests
605 West Main
Russellville, AR 72801
479- 968-2354
Buffalo Ranger District
Jasper, AR
870-446-5122
Ozark - St.
Francis National Forest
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 Emergency
Information:
911, Newton County
 Gear:
60 meter ropes will be most versatile for the top roping as well
as some of the trad and sport routes. Bring a full rack for traditional
climbing. Plenty of moderate to long slings are recommended, as
well as lots of quick draws for the sport routes.
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Facilities:
Camping at Sam's Throne is free. No facilities
or running water. Please pack out ALL trash. Chopping down trees
is illegal, but gathering dead wood is permitted. Grocery supplies
in Jasper and Mt. Judea.
Nearby Richland
Creek Wilderness has waterfalls and a great swimming hole. The
Buffalo National River
offers some of the best canoeing and kayaking in the Midwest,
and the abandoned logging roads provide excellent mountain biking.
For hikers, the Ozark
Highlands Trail and Buffalo
River Trail are close by.
For accomdations in the area try http://www.cavecreekcabin.com/
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Seasons:
Any time except summer. Fall and winter are best.
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Access Notes
Respect private property. Many of the outlying and tempting crags
are private. Landowners in the part of the country take their privacy
seriously.
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Miscellaneous
Sometime in the 1820's buffalo hunter Sam Davis, in search of his
sister who he claimed had been kidnapped by Indians, climbed on
top on a sandstone outcrop and preached fiery sermons to the hardscrabble
settlers who lived below. Besides spewing damnation, Davis claimed
to have a hoard of gold stashed on the summit of his rock, and built
a log blockade across the formation's walk up to keep out would-be
thieves. He also said he'd live for 1,000 years. His rock pulpit
became known as Sam's Throne.
Clay Frisbie is the author of the most popular but now out of print
guidebook. He owns Petra
Rock Climbing Gym in Springfield, Missouri, (417-866-3308).
Petra carries a full line of climbing gear.
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Links
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