Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo courstesy Arkansas State Parks - Cliff line at Mt. Magazine - Click for large viewArkansas - Mt. Magazine


Image - samll relief map of Arkansas with location of Mt. Magazine indicated by a yellow starLocation

Mount Magazine is about two hours south of Sam's Throne, about an hour and a half south of Jasper, 17 miles south of the town of Paris, just off of I-40. The peak is in the Boston Mountains

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Description

Mount Magazine,is composed of Savannah sandstone described as "more like quartzite or hard granite". The rock is vertical to slabby requiring more technical moves than those common to the rock in the northern areas of the state. Mt. Magazine is the highest point in the state of Arkansas at 2,753. It is easily accessed from I-40. There are over 100 routes up to 80 feet high, mostly in the 5.10 and under range as well as some stiffer rated climbs including a 17-pitch traverse. There is also some good bouldering found here.

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Directions

Mount Magazine is about an hour and a half south of Jasper, 17 miles south of the town of Paris, just off of I-40. Mount Magazine is in Mount Magazine State Park.

 

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Cliff Access

The is an access trail in front of the old (burned down) lodge site.

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Guidebooks

Mt. Magazine: A Rock Climber's Guide by Kerry Allen

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Routes

Comic Savant 5.12c , Don't Worry Be Happy, 5.8, Lycrophilia 5.10a,Right To Flight/The Nose 5.9, Solitare 5.10a, Comic Valentine 5.5, Pizza Burger Seduction 5.6

Mt. Magazine Rocklist Data

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Land Manager:

Mount Magazine State Park
16878 Highway 309
South Paris, AR 72855
E-mail: Mount Magazine@arkansas.com
Phone: (479) 963-8502

Magazine Ranger District
P.O. Box 511
3001 Walnut Paris, AR 72855
(479) 963-3076

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

911, Logan County


image - carabinerGear:

60 meter ropes will be most versatile as some routes reach 80 feet. Bring a full rack for traditional climbing.

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Facilities:

A new campground opened in the spring of 2001. There 18 campsites with water, electric and sewer hookups, a bathhouse, a pavilion and a visitor center, a bathhouse with hot showers and an RV dump station. Nine campsites can be reserved by calling the park. Other sites are available on a first-come basis. Tent sites are $7; more elaborate sites with power demand higher fees. Contact arkansasstateparks.com.

For accomdations in the area try http://www.cavecreekcabin.com/

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Seasons:

Cliffs face south. Summer is intolerably humid and hot. Fall and winter are best times to visit.

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Access Notes

Bears frequent the area, lock food in your trunk.

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Miscellaneous

Sometimes frequented by hang gliders who launch off the cliffs. Each August the mountain is home to an annual butterfly festival, where a reported 94 out of 126 native species have been spotted.

Clay Frisbie is the author of the most popular but now out of print guidebook. He owns Petra Rock Climbing Gym in Springfield, Missouri, (417-866-3308). Petra carries a full line of climbing gear.

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Links

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