 Arkansas
- Mt. Magazine
 Location
Mount Magazine is about two hours south of Sam's Throne, about
an hour and a half south of Jasper, 17 miles south of the town of
Paris, just off of I-40. The peak is in the Boston Mountains
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Description
Mount Magazine,is composed of Savannah sandstone described as
"more like quartzite or hard granite". The rock is vertical
to slabby requiring more technical moves than those common to the
rock in the northern areas of the state. Mt. Magazine is the highest
point in the state of Arkansas at 2,753. It is easily accessed from
I-40. There are over 100 routes up to 80 feet high, mostly in the
5.10 and under range as well as some stiffer rated climbs including
a 17-pitch traverse. There is also some good bouldering found here.
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Directions
Mount Magazine is about an hour and a half south of Jasper, 17
miles south of the town of Paris, just off of I-40. Mount Magazine
is in Mount Magazine State Park.
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Cliff Access
The is an access trail in front of the old (burned
down) lodge site.
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Guidebooks
Mt. Magazine: A Rock Climber's Guide by Kerry Allen
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Routes
Comic Savant 5.12c , Don't Worry Be Happy, 5.8, Lycrophilia 5.10a,Right
To Flight/The Nose 5.9, Solitare 5.10a, Comic Valentine 5.5, Pizza
Burger Seduction 5.6
Mt.
Magazine Rocklist Data
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Land Manager:
Mount Magazine State Park
16878 Highway 309
South Paris, AR 72855
E-mail: Mount Magazine@arkansas.com
Phone: (479) 963-8502
Magazine Ranger District
P.O. Box 511
3001 Walnut Paris, AR 72855
(479) 963-3076
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 Emergency
Information:
911, Logan County
 Gear:
60 meter ropes will be most versatile as some routes reach 80
feet. Bring a full rack for traditional climbing.
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Facilities:
A new campground opened in the spring of 2001.
There 18 campsites with water, electric and sewer hookups, a bathhouse,
a pavilion and a visitor center, a bathhouse with hot showers and
an RV dump station. Nine campsites can be reserved by calling the
park. Other sites are available on a first-come basis. Tent sites
are $7; more elaborate sites with power demand higher fees. Contact
arkansasstateparks.com.
For accomdations in the area try http://www.cavecreekcabin.com/
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Seasons:
Cliffs face south. Summer is intolerably humid and hot. Fall and
winter are best times to visit.
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Access Notes
Bears frequent the area, lock food in your trunk.
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Miscellaneous
Sometimes frequented by hang gliders who launch off the cliffs.
Each August the mountain is home to an annual butterfly festival,
where a reported 94 out of 126 native species have been spotted.
Clay Frisbie is the author of the most popular but now out of print
guidebook. He owns Petra
Rock Climbing Gym in Springfield, Missouri, (417-866-3308).
Petra carries a full line of climbing gear.
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Links
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