Rock climbing in the Southeastern USA

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Photo by Wayne Busch - A view of some of the rock formations at SandrockAlabama - Sandrock

Sand Rock Hoe-down March 13, 2004 info

image - small relief map of Alabama with location of Sandrock indicated by yellow starLocation

Sandrock (a.k.a. Sand Rock, Little Rock City, Cherokee Rock Village) is located in northeastern Alabama, near the southern end of 80 mile long Lookout Mountain, just north of the town of Leesburg. (The next largest town is Centre, or Gadsen). The rock formations sit atop Shinbone ridge overlooking the town of Leesburg and man-made Lake Weiss. Sandrock is about 20 miles northeast of Gadsen, Alabama, 1.5 hours west of Atlanta, Georgia, and about an hour southwest of Chattanooga, Tennessee.

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Photo by Sean Kroah - Wayne stands between Muscle Beach (left) and Fireplace Rock (right)Description

Sandrock, Alabama, has something to offer for anyone from beginner to expert. Approaches are short and easy, the climbing is typified by large jugs and horns on friendly sandstone, with pitches averaging 30 - 60 ft. in length. Sandrock is best known for the large number of excellent boulder problems found within its maze. The area is comprised of huge islands of gray featured sandstone with a maze of canyons, passages, and caverns between them, and some beautifully uncharacteristic rock formations. Most routes are easily top-roped, there are a number of fine bolted sport routes, and enough challenges to keep a trad leader on edge. It is a very user friendly area for novices, offering both traditional and bolted routes with little exposure.

See larger view of the rock formations pictured

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Sean Kroah stems on The whipping PostDirections

North of Atlanta on I-75, intersect SR 41 north at exit #118. Follow it north past Cartersville, detouring onto Highway 411 (SR 20) west, passing by Rome, Georgia, on your way into Alabama.

To use a route south of Atlanta, take I-20 (SR 402) west at exit #92. Connect to 278 (SR 6), and follow it through Rockmart to Cedartown. From Cedartown, take either SR 100 or Highway 27 (SR 1) north until you intersect with Highway 411 West. Passing through Cedartown to find SR 100 can be confusing as it is poorly marked; follow 278 into town, turn left at the church, then right at the next traffic light to stay on 278. SR 100 is to be found as you leave the industrial area on the outskirts of town. The road will fork - you can take the fork to the right, or continue a little further looking for the next road to the right (there will be an overpass to the left). Travel a short distance up the road to confirm you are on course with a SR 100 road sign.

Show large view of Sean on The Whipping Post

Once on 411 West, follow it across Georgia and into Alabama. Things get pretty sparse once your out of the Atlanta area, so if you need to get supplies or a motel room, you'd better not wait too long. Once you're into Alabama, follow 411 through Centre to Leesburg. Turn right on Highway 68 West. You'll drive 2.7 miles up a long hill (gas station/store on right halfway). There will be a few ramshackle shops on the right atop the hill, just after the colorful "Welcome to Sandrock" sign. Look for a hard left turn onto County Road #36 and continue 1.5 miles. Watch for the sign on the left pointing to Cherokee Rock Village (photo)<font size="-1">Photo by Wayne Busch - Sign at turn off of paved raod points to . Turn left on an indistinct narrow asphalt road with a barbed wire fence on both sides. (you may think it’s some farmers driveway). This paved road winds uphill, and soon turns to dirt/gravel. Power lines and a large tower will be evident on the right. Turn right at the end of this road and continue uphill along the ridge top until the road ends at a small parking lot. You have arrived. You can camp where ever you find a spot in the woods. The rocks / deep canyons / cliffs will be on your left as you drive up the gravel road, be careful if you choose to camp on that side - don't walk off a cliff in the dark!

Show larger view of Cherokee Rock Village sign

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Image - US Geologic Survey satellite image of Sandrock, AlabamaCliff Access

The rock formations are visible from the parking area requiring only a short walk to reach the closest. There are additional points of access along the road which parallels the climbing area near its terminus. A low rock wall has been constructed at the border of the parking area to discourage direct ATV access into the climbing areas.

The rock formations are typically free standing with routes on all sides. Almost all of them offer easy access to the top via scrambling or easy climbs to rig top ropes. Some of the more popular have permanent anchors. Trails wind around and through the many formations, some pass through small caves and slots.

See enlarged satellite view of Sandrock

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Out of printDixie Cragger's AtlasGuidebooks

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris Watford. 1999. Published by Market Place Press, 425 Market Place, Roswell, GA. 30075.

The Deep South Climbers Companion by Rob Robinson and Chris Watford is currently out of print, unavailable.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Catherine Golden leads a reoute on the Jaws BlockRoutes

Classic climbs in the area include:

They Call Me Cruiser 5.10 b/c, Jaws 5.9, Reed's Eliminate 5.12 b/c, Champagne Jam 5.12 c/d, Pin Chimney 5.8, Loosy Goosy 5.9, The Standard Route 5.6, Lands of Time 5.10 b/c, Knob Wall 5.6, Wall of Horns 5.10b/c, The Sun Wall area (some good sport routes), The Whipping Post area. Numerous beginner top rope routes can be easily rigged on the Jaws Block making it a very popular place for first time climbers.

Bouldering routes can be found on every rock formation, there are hundreds of them.

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Land Manager:

Sandrock is owned by Cherokee County. It is hoped that one day it may be developed into a park, but for the time being, it is essentially unrestricted.

Cherokee County Parks & Recreation Board
Mr. J.C. Stallings, Chairman
Centre, Alabama 35960

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image - caduceus -  symbol of medicineEmergency Information:

You are in Cherokee County. Dial 911.

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image - carabinerGear:

Typical bouldering gear, pads, etc.

Bring plenty of long runners if you're going to set up top-ropes.

For sport or traditional leading, a light to standard rack will do. 50m ropes are adequate. You may want to bring several two foot slings to tie off to the numerous horns. Many popular climbs are bolted sport routes, and can be climbed with just a half dozen quickdraws. Please pad all trees - they are few and far between, and need all the protection we can give them to preserve their bark.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Jackie Busch starts up Jaws 5.9Facilities:

None. No water. An outhouse was located near the parking area, but don't expect it to be in the best of conditions. There is heavy day and night use for all forms of recreation and mischief.

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Seasons:

Climbing is best enjoyed during the cooler months, especially on the southern exposures. Sandrock can be unbearably hot in midsummer, though cool and shaded chasms and canyons can be found to provide some relief if you search for them.

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Photo by Wayne Busch - Sponsored by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition, the Sandrock Hoe-Down draws large crowds.Access Notes

One of the first things that might impress (or depress) you on visiting Sandrock is the amount of abuse this area receives. Litter, graffiti, fire pits, and general human impact are not hard to find. It's easy access and rural location draw all kinds of traffic.

Climbers recognized the value of this resource many years ago, and took it upon themselves to make an effort to keep the area from being closed due to the abuse. Thanks to the efforts of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and voluntary work by many climbers, this area has made improvements over the years and continued access appears to be secure.

The SCC has sponsored an annual bouldering competition, gathering and cleanup of the area each spring for several years now. This event typically draws in the neighborhood of 100 climbers. The cleanup effort usually fills a large dumpster or two, often overflowing the capacity. Additional support from the Access Fund, local and national climbing gear retailers, and other sources has brought the support of the local county government and shone a good light on the sport of climbing.

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Miscellaneous

Beware of loose nuts on bolts on some sport routes, Holiday Block, & West End.

Be sure to read "A Brief History of Climbing at Sand Rock"

Sandrock is located in a DRY COUNTY. You can be ARRESTED. Keep alcohol out of sight! My personal experiences with this are recorded in Sandrock Night Life - a trip report.

Sandrock is in the Central Time Zone.

Thanks to Wendy and Gary for the updates!

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<font size="-1">Photo by Wayne Busch - Jim Waldrop leads The Standard Route 5.6 Links

Show large view of Jim on the Pinnacle

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Sandrock Trip Reports

3/28/02 Sandrock Hoe-down - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Wayne and Jackie attend the Sandrock Hoe-down

2/7-10/02 - Sandrock, Alabama - Submitted by Adam Amarose - Adam and six friends visit Sandrock

3/27/99 - Sandrock Hoe Down - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Jackie,Wayne and four friends attend the Sandrock Hoe-down

10/10/98 - Sandrock, Alabama October 10th - 11th - Submitted by Wayne Busch - A group of 10 visit over the weekend (short).

4/96 - Sandrock Night Life - Submitted by Wayne Busch - Wayne tells the story of how he learned Sandrock is in a dry county.

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